THE TRIP

23 May 2009

Left home in County Durham around 1.00pm for Dover and sailed on the 9.25pm ferry.  Stayed in the Aire 2 Caps for the night. 

24th May

Forgot to alter my watch so awoke at 7.00am only to realise it was actually 8.00am.  We were parked next to an old Citroen motor home and got chatting to the owner who told us it was 50 years old.  I bet our Ford Transit will not be around in 50 years.  Decided to stop for the night near Orleans but every site we went to was either shut or a 5 star sort of place.  Eventually found a nice site near Salbris next to a lake.  Very hot night even with the windows open.

25th May

Drove to the Massif Central and had a look to the town of Mont Dore which was not as nice as we has anticipated and in fact felt a bit run down.  Found a really pleasant campsite a few miles outside of the town and were the only people there which felt a bit odd.  Cost 12.50 Euros inc electricity.  We went for a short walk in the evening along the road next to the campsite and spotted plenty of wild flowers along the roadside verges and in nearby fields (Early purple Orchids, Scabious, Violets, and Red/Bladder Campion plus plenty of others).  Had a BBQ and managed to finish our food just before the sky turned threatening and the wind got up.  We always worry when it gets windy nowadays as we had the top of a tree snap off near us a couple of years ago ithe Dordogne. Fortunately it landed on the pitch next to us but it brought home how easily things can go wrong.  It rained heavily with thunder and lightning through the night but at least it was a bit cooler   

26th May

Still cool and showery this morning.  We decided to head further south to the village of Florac in the Cevennes area.  The gorges of the Tarn and Jonte, as well as the surrounding hills are a walkers paradise and the plan is to spend a few days here exploring.  The road down to St Emine was pretty impressive with a great view from the van of the massive drops we would go over should we concentrate on the scenery too much.  On arrival we found a nice campsite at the little village of Bedoues just outside Florac.  The owners here are very friendly and we can do several walks straight from the site which saves us the worry of leaving the van in some remote parking area.  The fact the van could be broken into in such places is always in the back of our minds despite the fact that we have little of real value to a thief.  As it got dark we could hear a strange but regular electronic beeping which was a bit irritating.  We thought it was a burglar alarm or similar near the toilets, but when it started moving from tree to tree we realised it was actually a Scops Owl.  Once we realised it was natural it ceased to be quite as annoying.  This evening the weather was still changeable but as the sun went down it looked as if it was clearing out.

27th May

A beautiful morning with a clear powder blue sky and a cool wind – perfect weather for walking.  Using the Cicerone Guide Walking in the Cevennes we did route 17 The Round of Mont Puecheral from the campsite.  This was a lovely walk with loads of flowers along the path and in the surrounding sparsely wooded upland.  Here we found Lesser Butterfly and Military Orchids as well as the more common Purple Orchid.  Lower down the meadows were full of colour with flowers such as Ox Eye Daisy, Red Clover, Hay Rattle, Scabious, Smooth Hawks Beard and Vipers Bugloss to name but a few.    The only thing that spoiled the walk slightly, were the numerous British 4X4 drivers that were using some of the forest tracks in the early part of the walk.  While they drove past with care we were still half suffocated with dust and found them really out of place in such a beautiful environment.  Saw what I thought was the Scops Owl in the tree near the toilets about 10pm.

View from the high point of this walk

The went past meadows rich in flowers such as Vipers Bugloss, Red Clover, Hay Rattle, Smooth Hawks Beard and Ox Eye Daisy.

28th May

A magnificent walk today on walk 18 of our guide the Sentier Des Menhirs.  These massive 4,000 year old Neolithic standing stones are situated high up on a ridge above the Village of Les Bondons and can be explored on a high level circular walk that gives extensive views in all directions.  We saw lots of Orchids and the hillsides were stained yellow with Broom. It was impossible to linger too long though due to a strong wind which despite the blue sky was bitterly cold.  Interestingly we expected this to be a popular walk but did not see a single walker all day.  Back in the shelter of the campsite it was really hot and we spent the evening chilling out, reading and enjoying some of the local wine. 

One of the many Menhirs that are found on this walk.

29th May

A rest day so only had a short walk along the river, did some planning and visited the local supermarket in Florac.  Later in the evening we were invited for drinks by a really nice couple from Tynemouth and then later on ended up chatting to our German neighbours in a mixture of German, English and French.  This seemed to set the tone for the whole trip and we went on to meet lots of wonderful people from the UK as well as Europe.  The Scops Owl was very active tonight – little sod sounds like a smoke alarm that needs the battery replacing.

30th May

Got up at 6.30am to do some photography along the river, but the light was really poor due to the overhanging trees.  Back at the van at 9.00am for breakfast as we are moving on today.  We could stay here for much longer but need to keep moving south so that we do not end up in Spain at the hottest time.  The plan was to go to La Vigan further south in the Cevenne, but on arriving the only site open was full up with car enthusiasts.  Kept driving south and eventually found a site at St Jean de Brunel where a lovely lady in a nearby caravan brought us some crepes to have after our dinner.  We noticed that she cooked for half the site as a string of people were leaving her caravan with food parcels. 

31st May

Awoke to a thunderstorm and heavy rain.  Decided to Leave the Cevennes area and head to the Camargue.  The rain persisted for much of the day in the form of heavy showers making the driving difficult, especially as the French drove just as fast and daft as they do in the dry.  Came across several accidents where vehicles had left the road and one was even balanced on top of the crash barrier in the middle.  Stopped at our usual campsite near Aigues Mortes and an hour or so later the sun came out.  The plan is to stay here for a couple of days.

1st June

A lazy start today, did the washing, had a shower etc and then had a visit to the Ornithological Park a few miles away.  The area is made up of lagoons as well as a few cages where they have some captive birds.  One of two have damaged wings which is I assume the reason they keep them captive.  Saw a pair of Eagle Owls with two rather cute fluffy chicks (size of small dogs!) as well.  Notable wild birds spotted were – Night Heron, Little Egret, Cattle Egret, Grey Heron, Little Tern, Flamingo, Black Winged Stilt, Mediterranean Gull, Ibis and Avocet.  Called in at a Produits Regional stall on the way back for strawberries, melon, apricots and local wine.

Grey Heron

Flamingo

Little Egret

Hight Heron

Perigrine Falcon (Captive)

2nd June

Awoke with Mozzies singing in my ear in the early hours and had to shut the windows as they were getting past the net somehow.  As a result it was very hot throughout the night.  Awoke to another beautiful day and after a leisurely breakfast cycled into Aigues Mortes.  Aigues Mortes (Dead Waters) is a busy medieval walled town with some interesting shops and has a canal running just outside of the walls.  We had a walk along the canal and then headed back to the bikes. 

Aigues Mortes

On the way back to campsite we saw a Purple Heron fly up from the canal, a bird neither of us had ever seen before.  A relaxing afternoon of eating, reading, sunbathing and fishing (caught nothing!) followed.  We had a beautiful sunset over the reeds bordering the canal but were forced into the van as the mozzies came out. 

3rd June

Another gorgeous day as we head off to the Haute Languedoc.  Came off motorway at Meze and saw the bay covered in mussel/oyster beds.  They are grown on lines that are pulled up when they are ready to be harvested.  We drove through Lamalou le Bains, a spa town, but the campsite there was full, fortunately we found one in nearby Tarassac.   We had to wait till 4pm for the reception to open to get in though.  Parked next to a nice couple from Sheffield who like us were here for the walking.  The campsite seemed a little run down at first but on closer inspection was simply a bit dated.  It had fantastic power showers and the people were friendly which was good enough for us.  The couple from Sheffield had already done a couple of walks and were able to give us some info about the area.

4th June

Did a walk recommended by our neighbours, Cicerone Guide Walking in the Languedoc Walk number 11 Circuit of La Gleizo.  It is the cherry harvest and everywhere the trees are heavy with these red glistening globes.  In the fields there are ladders up trees and stalls along the roadsides selling the fruit.  Starting at La Travalle we walked up through the village and up a stony track towards the hamlet of Bardos.  Walking through oak and sweet chestnut trees we walked past Bardos and down to Heric where we had our lunch next to an old packhorse bridge.  The path from Heric then took us down the side of the Heric Gorge.  This section is a popular tourist walk and follows the river through some impressive scenery with high cliffs on either side.  The lower section was very busy with people enjoying picnics and swimming in the deep pools.  We did not see much wildlife but found a photogenic lizard that obligingly posed for the camera.  Ice creams at the bottom of the gorge and a bag of cherries kept the energy levels up for the walk back to the campsite. A few drinks with our neighbours from Sheffield topped of a cracking day.

5th June

Awoke to rain this morning so had a bit of a late start. Decided to have a rest day so cleaned out the van, washed our clothes and then went looking for a supermarket.  We found a supermarket in Lamalou le Bains but then had to go to Olargues for fresh veg as the supermarket had very little, or should we say Lidl.  The weather which had been cloudy and threatening all day finally broke while we were having a bottle of wine with our neighbours around 8 pm.  Thunder and lighting rumbled on throughout the night but we seem to have missed the worst of it.

6th June

Weather still not too good and certainly not good enough for our planned walk up onto the high plateau.  Instead we cycled into the village of Mons La Travelle, visiting a 12th century chapel on way.  After a beer or two in the local bar we cycled back to the campsite via the hamlet of Le Verdie.  Back at the campsite we had a visit by a Hoopoe which obligingly had a mud bath opposite the van. Hope the weather improves soon as we are both itching to do a more challenging walk.

7th June

Rain to start the day but as forcast it brightened up later.  Did walk 6 Circuit of the Caroux Plateau in the Cicerone guide Walking in the Languedoc.  Parked in a lovely old village and walked on upwards passing an old lady on the way selling cherries and walnuts from her garage.  Up through an alleyway we passed gorgeous old houses (are they empty or second homes?) and up a steep path through oak & chestnut trees on an ancient pathway.  When it opened out we had a good view of Roque Rouge where the path crossed the steep cliff on a series of interlinked ledges.  Steep walking took us to the Torrent d'Albine which was pretty impressive as it fanned down in a series of smooth cascades.  Navigation through the woods was quite difficult at times as the cairns were hard to find and the track kept dissapearing.  Eventually though we scrambled up to the Roque Rouge and apart from a few exposed slabs it was a pleasant walk with wonderful views.  We could also see the medieval fortification above Colombieres from here.  A last pull up onto the plateau and we joined the GR7 path to the peat bog of Tourbiere de la Lande.  This bog has sundews, sphagnum moss and a rare lizard and is unusual in South France.  Making our way through the trees we came to the Refuge de Font Salesse where we spent some time taking “ghost” photos.  On the way down we saw signs where wild boar had recently been nosing around in the rich soil so we made plenty of noise to avoid a close encounter.  It was a long steep knee straining decent into the valley through a woodland that looked to have been terraced at some stage.  In the village the Passion flowers were in full bloom.  Feeling a little lazy after our day on the hill we had meal at the campsite restaurant in the evening.  While waiting for our meal we discussed how France is suffering a recession just the same as England with the campsite warden.

An easy scramble led to the ledges of the Roque Rouge a high-level exposed path that would eventually lead to the plateau.

The view from the ledges of the Roque Rouge.

The path followed the thin line of trees across the cliffs

The Refuge de Font Salesse where we saw lots of evidence of Wild Boar.

The ghosts of the the Refuge de Font Salesse.

 8th June

Headed for Carcassonne as weather forecast not too good. Our sat nav decided to take us through the centre of the city – not recommended with the narrow streets!  Bloody thing suggested we go down a tunnel that was smaller than our van in both width and height, fortunately we were not being followed too closely and were able to reverse and escape. Once we finally found someone at the campsite (just south of the city), which involved ringing a number on the reception door and explaining (in French) that we had just arrived and would like to stay!, we parked up and managed to plug in to an electric point with a wasps nest in it!  This put David in a bit of a flap and we moved to another pitch.  The site was rather unkempt but then again it was still early in the season.  A feral tabby cat family decided to visit us in the hope of a feed.  Gave her a bit of food and then later on she turned up with the whole family for supper.

9th June Cycled into the old city of Carcassonne.  We left our bikes outside the city walls and walked in.  A lovely city with shops selling medieval costumes, impressive swords and beautiful clothes and jewellery - as well as the usual touristy nik-naks of course.  It was a cross between Aigues Mortes and York with the wonderful architecture – castles, churches, archways, towers and ramparts.  Watched a street performer whos routine involved balancing 3 crystal balls on his head, one on top of the other.  Had a meal in the centre where the cassoulet was delicious.  The shop with the fantastic jewellery made with sand and fired, raku pottery and papier mache work was fabulous, we could have spent a fortune!  We watched a street being made into a film set with mediaeval market and complete with director who marched around framing different scenes with his hands.

Inside the Old City of Carcasonne

Film set being created within the city walls

Our 1st view of the medieval ramparts

10th June

Decided to move campsites to one nearer the city centre (Camping a la Cite) so we could cycle to the Canal du Midi.  After setting up and having lunch, we cycled through the new city – not so easy as the traffic was rather heavy to the Canal.  We set off along the towpath alongside the long straight, green, cloudy Canal bordered by tall trees to the first lock where we watched the boats going through (plenty of “Noddy” boats – as named by Rick Stein on his Mediterranean cruise).  We cycled for 2-2.5 hours in all passing back over the bridge with wonderful views of the old city.

Lock a few miles downstream of Carcasonne

11th June

Moved on further into Cathars Castles country to Duilhac sous Peyrepertuse (recommended by a Scottish couple we met in a parking area) to a camping car aire in the village below the Chateau.  Luckily the parking area had a water supply as we were advised the aire had no water at all due to a shortage in the in the village. When the well was dug 15 years previous, the person responsible said there may be a problem in 15 years time.  He must have known his stuff as almost to the day, the well ran dry.  Either that or it was a story told to gullible tourists like us. The drive to the village took us past the Chateau de Queribus standing imposing on the hillside.  We wanted to visit the Chateau de Peyrepertuse so we cycled from the aire rather than drive the van up.   The road was steep but up and up we toiled and the Chateau got more and more spectacular the closer we got.  As it didn't close till 7pm, we paid our 5 euros and had a good explore.  It had been occupied since Roman times from the start of the 1st century and is built in layers out on a limestone ridge at a height of 800m.  Spectacular views from the top where wild flowers flourish amongst the ruins.  A really interesting place and well worth a visit.  We were surprised at just how much was still remaining.  This castle is also the place where Nick Crane slept on his trans European mountain walk and said he was sure he could smell the lamp fat and greasy leather of medieval soldiery.  As the sun began to drop to the horizon we could certainly begin to feel the history of the place oozing from the walls.  What took us nearly an hour to cycle up, took only minutes to descend - have we any brake pads left?  By the time we got back to the aire it had filled to capacity, good job we got there early.

View of the Castle from the upper ramparts

Inside Chateau de Peyrepertuse

As the sun began to drop we could feel the history of the place oozing from the walls

12th June

Walked into the village of Duilhac sous Peyrepertuse to see the Church of Saint-Michel (1115) with its interesting external decorations.  The "un-ebbing" village fountain has the inscription “He who will drink, in love will he fall”.  As we were already together we gave it a miss.  Decided to leave via the Gorges de Galamus, a narrow winding road which ended at the top of the gorge with a sign saying “No campervans or vehicles wider than 2m”!  Why couldn't they say that at the beginning of the bloody road!  On the return journey we stopped between Rouffiac des Corbieres and Soulatge where we found an amazing selection of orchids including an Early Spider Orchid which neither of us had seen before.  Back on the main road we drove towards Ax-Les-Thermes along the Road of Cols.  The town was very busy so we carried onto Merens les Vals where we found the perfect municipal campsite.  Weather was glorious and we sat out enjoying a beer and talking to a very interesting English man who spends 11 months a year travelling. 

13th June

Very hot today as we set off for Andorra.  Unfortunately being Saturday the entire French population were heading for Andorra for their cheap petrol and alcohol.  The town of Pas de la Casa seemed to be solely for that purpose, ugly supermarket and massive petrol stations.  Andorra seems to be built for the skiing industry, bare hillsides with metalwork going up them with no regard for the environment.  Stopped at a campsite at Canillo where we planned to do a via ferrata.

14th June

After early morning rain, we set off to do the via ferrata – The Canal Du Mora.  It started easy enough, then progressed to a scramble up a wet gully, then on up a PD+ face with metal stanchions.  There was a fair bit of loose stuff in one or two places so we put on a rope, after all no one wants to lob off onto well spaced steel wires, even with the correct kit. By the time we got to the top of that and put the rope away the sun came out and it became very hot.  Finally after a quick drink we went up more stanchions and across an exposed traverse onto the other side of the gully.  Solid rock here and very enjoyable.  The top was a green area with a mass of orchids.  The descent to the road was a scramble in itself.  Back at the campsite we found we had new neighbours, a young couple without a tent.  Strange behaviour followed which we will not go into, but they were polite to us so each to their own.

Moira on the Via Ferrata

Using a rope on the loose stuff

15th June

Moving into Spain, to the Sierra Del Cadi today.  Drove through the capital of Andorra, Andorra le Vella, another eyesore and horrendous to drive through.  Had been warned that we would be searched by customs but once they realised we were a camper van and didn't have any tobacco or much alcohol,  they didn't seem interested and let us continue.  Route finding proved a little difficult, the sat nav couldn't cope with Spain at all and we went round and round Seu d'Urgell looking for the road to Saldes.  Eventually we gave up and took an alternative route, using the map through the Tunel del Cadi (11 euros for the privilege!).  Found the road to Sales and continued to Gosol which seemed a better base, but unfortunately there were no campsites open.  Back to Saldes the only one open was Camping Repos de Pedraforca.  Expensive (30.90 euros) but a friendly welcome and they did have WiFi (extra) and indoor and outdoor swimming pools.  The man in reception spoke good English and gave us lots of leaflets and advice on the area. 

16th June

We planned to walk up to the Refugio below Pedraforca then up to the col to take photos as the weather looked threatening.    It began raining as we set off but we decided to continue to the parking area where there is a Mirador built out on the jutting cliff.  It was worth the effort though as the weather looked to be clearing and a cracking view down into the valley opened up.  We decided to make our way up through the woods to the Refugio then up on the footpath towards Pedraforca and if the weather continued to clear we would give the summit a try.  At the col we had to make a decision, the col alone or the more adventurous mountain summit?   The decision was easy we decided to go for the mountain and scrambled up a long exposed gully onto the ridge.  After about an hour of scrambling we reached the summit which was marked with an ice axe.  Had lunch at the top with other walkers (included two young men with large tupperware boxes full of multicolour pasta and veg and another group supping wine from a bottle.  Then the descent – and what a descent, hundreds of  feet of scree on which we slid and slithered our way down for what seemed like an eternity.  The Spanish men that we were behind made sure we knew which way to go and even waited for us to point out the way at a path junction.  Help which as experienced mountaineers we did not need,  but an act typical of such friendly people who seemed pleased we were enjoying our visit to their mountains.  A rumble of thunder on the lower but easier track made us move quickly back down to the mirador and the van.  A cracking day

Pedraforca from the campsite.  The highest peak is the one or the right.  The large gully in the centre is the decent route.

Not a place to slip while scrambling unroped

On the summit of Pedraforca

17th June

A rest day with a visit to the supermarket in Berga as recommended by some Dutch people staying on the campsite.  A swim in the pool and an email to Moira's Spanish teacher (in spanish of course) followed an afternoon of cleaning and washing.  Unfortunately we couldn't get the WiFi to connect so had to give that idea up.

18th June

Back to the Mirador de Gresolet again, this time for a days photography.  We walked along the track to the Refugio but instead of going up through the woods we continued along the track.  What a wonderful display of wild flowers and butterflies, Orchids, Sun Spurges, Viper's Bugloss, Yellow Gentian, Columbine and the most amazing of all loads of Humming Bird Hawk Moths.  Pedraforca looked amazing from this angle – were we really there two days ago?  Up a rise to a viewpoint we had even more wonderful views and more amazing flowers and shrubs to look at – St. Bernard's Lily, Lavender, Whispering Grass, Juniper and Pine.  Back at the campsite we finally got the WiFi connected and were able to check our emails and send them out to friends and family.  We were also able to Skype our friends Graham and Sandra back home.  Seemed really strange seeing them sitting at home while we chatted over the computer.

Hummingbird Hawkmoth

19th June

Moved onto Vilanova de Prades, very cloudy but still hot.  Passed the amazing mountains of Montserrat, shame we didn't have time to visit them.  This is an agricultural area with fields of corn, vines and olive trees.  The campsite was very clean but with a high percentage of statics – weekenders from Barcelona mainly.  Unfortunately someone decided it was a good idea to bring his drum kit so we went for a walk to the village!  Unfortunately the village was  rather dead – were people staying in out of the heat or are the majority of houses second homes?

20th June

Decided to move on, not much information on walking in the area and the weather rather threatening and windy.  On the way south decided to visit the fortified hamlet of Suirana, recommended by some friends who had toured and climbed around here.  The road to Suirana went up and up, winding up through a fabulous gorge.  We passed a campsite on the way up to a parking area.  What a lovely place, there were walks signposted from the car park and an interesting village to visit.  We decided to book in at the campsite we had passed and then come back and explore the area.  As this is primarily a climbing area the campsite seemed to be designed mainly for tents rather than camper vans so it was a bit of a squeeze getting the van under the pine trees!  Back at the village, I think everyone had had the same idea, there were cars and jeep safari vehicles everywhere.  Lovely village with a 12th century church.  An old man sat near a water fountain with an inscription told us how the man it was dedicated it to had left money in his will for water to be put into the village.  At the end of the village was a mirador with fantastic views.  Back at the car park going in the opposite direction was a footpath signposted along the foot of the cliffs of the gorge.  Here there were climbers on the bolted climbs on the way along to La Trona, an impressive rock formation.  After a photographic session we climbed up to the Col de Suirana and back onto the road to the campsite.  Also heard a siren coming up the long road – we hope it wasn't for any of the climbers we had seen.  A little after this a helicopter arrived and it was confirmed a climber had been injured.  Watched the local tabby cat trying to get into the open window of a Spaniard's caravan while they were out!!    Well we hadn't seen a TV for weeks so have to make the best of any entertainment on offer.  Later with a bottle of local wine we sat and listened to the bird sounds around us as the sun went down – crested tits, coal tits and possibly a gold crest or fire crest were seen during our stay. 

Exposed path above the gorge near the hamlet of Suirana

The rock formation La Trona

Cracking views at every turn.

21st June

Lovely morning as we set off further south to Secorbe/Najavas.  Went down the motorway alongside the Med.  Again a large campsite with lots of statics for the weekenders from Valencia.  The pitches all had shelters which were welcome as it was so hot. 

22nd June

Decided to cycle the Via Verde Ojos Negros cycleway which runs past the campsite.  It follows old railway lines and goes through the old tunnels.  Good surfaced track with automatic lights in the tunnels.  We cycled to the town of Jerica which was a bit of a disappointment.  Although there was a church, castle and a tower and a lot of money had obviously been spent on the tourism side at one time, there was a feeling of neglect and lots of graffiti everywhere, nor could we find a café anywhere so we cycled back to Najavas village.  What a difference, the houses on the Calle de Valencia were colonial style in their own grounds with statues and fountains, a sign of great wealth at some point in the past.  Here we found a bar with cool beer and relaxed watching the news on a large TV screen. 

Jerica a beautiful town but graffiti around the castle spoiled it for us.

Inside one of the railway tunnels on theVia Verde Ojos Negros cycleway.

23rd June

Decided to move to the Cabo del Gato today, the National Park at the very south of the country.  Not a pleasant journey, very hot with a lot of industrial estates and a sea of plastic over the fruit trees, tomatoes, strawberries etc.  Land very desert like with shanty towns for the migrants workers.  The plastic stopped once we got into the National Park and the scenery got better.  Still very dry, no rivers or streams and lots of succulent plants.  The campsite at Las Negras (named because of the black pebbles on the beach) was past the white, Moorish village of the same name.  The site was large, clean and next to the public beach on which there was a community of travellers who seemed to spend most of their time wandering around naked. Went for a swim in the sea, lovely and refreshing.    Also saw quite a few really big bats flying between our van and the Palm trees.  By big we mean with a wing span of a foot or so.

View from the fort towards the village of Las Negras which is white.  The village gets its name from the black volcanic rocks.

Windmill in the village of Las Negras

24th June

Beautiful morning, hot with a clear blue sky.  Had a walk along the coast past a small fort to the next cove.  Bit of a drama on the beach this morning, seems someone set fire to the scrub next to the public beach last night and it was spreading towards the campsite.  Fortunately they managed to put it out.  The police were interviewing the travellers and there seem to be an argument going on between the campsite staff and the travellers.  Not sure whether this group of people were a genuine threat or simply at the receiving end of the prejudice that seems to follow anyone who wants to live freely or differently.  Very interesting plants probably indigenous to this area, all along the coastal path.  The fort turned out to be someone's home (the satellite dish gave that away!) although we did somehow manage to get into their garden until we realised the path went the other way.  The next beach was lovely and sandy but very busy so we walked back to the campsite beach and went back in the sea for the afternoon.  The wind got up through the night and we had to get up to get the washing in at 1.30am in case it blew away.  Outside it felt like being in a fan assisted oven.

A beautiful walk but you need an early start to avoid the heat at this time of year.

25th June

Decided to move to a cooler area as we had both had enough sun for now.  Going to the Sierra Nevada/Alpujarras where we had hoped it would be cooler.  Not very nice along the Almeria coast, a sea of plastic, ugly square houses like lego blocks and high rise hotels.  It got better once we started heading inland towards the Sierra de Gador, greener with more trees and cooler.  Stopped at the campsite at Trevelez, the highest town in Spain famous for its air dried hams.  Nice campsite with a good restaurant and reasonably priced

26th June

Set off early for a walk from the campsite.  We walked to the village and took the higher path that let through bushes, between fields and allotments.  Unfortunately quite a way up, the path suddenly ended in a fence barrier so we turned back and re-joined the main track.  There was a nice breeze but it was still very hot and dusty on the track.  We carried on up to the GR7 branch then started back down.  On the way down we heard marsh frogs “laughing” from a man-made pond just off the track so had a look down to it.  There we found a newly emerged dragonfly to photograph  and an amazing butterfly/moth with beautiful lace wings and two long tails ending  in a paddle shape.  Later we found out it was a Spoon-Winged Lacewing.  The pond was alive with dragonflies, damselflies, tadpoles, baby frogs and one very large marsh frog.  Had another meal at the restaurant as last nights was so good.

 Information sign above the village of Trevelez

Immature Broad-Bodied Chaser Dragonfly

27th June

Had a walk into the village via a narrow path alongside a stream with a steep drop on the other side.  Found a Spar shop so stocked up with supplies and had a look around  the village.  Back at the campsite we managed to acquire a dog, a very nervous collie/labrador/alsatian that must have felt comfortable with us.  When David discovered it had helped itself to one of his shoes and was happily chewing it, we decided it was best if it went back to where it had come from!   Later on we heard a scream from the little girl next door and found that the dog had stolen her little bucket.  For a moment or two though we all thought the dog had attacked her, but it was simply the shock of having the dog snatch the bucket from her hands.

28th June

Moving on today to Ronda, further west.  Lovely drive through the mountains and   villages.  Stopped at a little craft market at the side of the road and bought a couple of things from a nice friendly Moroccan man.  Saw fields of garlic being harvested by families, the smell of the garlic as we drove past was amazing.  Had hoped to go to Ronda via  El Chorro where David had climbed quite a few years ago, but unfortunately the road was closed.  Had a little difficulty finding the campsite and again the sat nav lead us up narrow streets into the centre of Ronda.  Eventually found the campsite, rather sloping pitch for us, but it was only for one night.  The campsite was near to the old part of the town so we had a walk to it.  What a lovely town, full of churches, castles, convents and of course the amazing Puente Nueva (New Bridge) which was the main attraction we wanted to see.  There was a very beautiful part right in the centre with palm trees surrounded by convents and churches so decided to have a meal - lovely setting in which to relax and watch the world go by.  After our meal we had a walk down beside and underneath the bridge along with an American family who followed us!  Then to the Bullring which is the oldest in Spain where they were the first to use the red cloak.  We still cannot get our heads around why anyone would want to make an animal suffer for entertainment though.  There was a wonderful bronze statue of a bull outside the ring as well.  Although it was getting late, the atmosphere of the town was very pleasant and even the large groups of youths skateboarding up and down the pavements did not make us feel uncomfortable.  In fact they seemed to have a lot of respect for those wandering by and regularly stopped to let people past.  Nothing like the surly challenging stares you get from a significant minority of little scroats back home that's for sure.  It was 9.30pm by the time we walked back to the campsite and nearly dark!

29th June

Got away early today as we had a long way to go. We are heading north through Seville to the National Park of Monfrague near Plasencia, an area recommended to us by some friends for the vulture breeding programme and the excellent cycling/scenery.  Not an interesting journey to get there though, just brown fields that went on and on.  At the campsite there were loads of azure winged magpies, beautiful birds and very tame.  The people running the campsite were very friendly and helpful and gave us plenty of leaflets and advise on where to visit.  Shame the man in the next caravan had to make so much noise shouting and screaming at his kids every few minutes!   The next day after going out in the van we moved pitches to a quieter part of the site.

30th June

Had to start off by finding a supermarket as we were running out of food.  Then onto the National Park.  Stopped at the vulture mirador where we saw Griffin Vultures, Kites and Egyptian Vultures close to the road.  Then onto Castillio de Monfrague (built by the Arabs in 811AD and rebuilt by the Christians in 12-15th centuries) to where there were two towers left, one ruined but the other where you can climb to the top and walk around (remembering to follow the health and safety advice of course by not going over the red line - the drop should you go over is massive!).  Fabulous views from the top, you can see for miles around and enjoy the vultures soaring below, rather than above.  On the way down we saw a sign for cave paintings but viewings had to be booked at  the visitors centre in San Carlos.  The road took us up to the dam (constructed in the late 50's for the hydro-electric station at Torrejon) to a picnic area where we stopped.  While David photographed the azure winged magpies that joined us, I saw two foxes coming down the road towards us.  One jumped over a wall and disappeared but the other came up to us and then stayed for the rest of the afternoon!  It seemed to be a young dog fox in very good condition.  It even lay down and went to sleep at one point. It was the most wonderful experience to be so close to such a wild, yet habituated animal.  After that we carried on up the road to the cork forests, the trees an amazing ginger brown colour where the bark had been stripped.  Decided to stay another day to explore the area a little better and perhaps have a look to see the cave paintings.

Lazy Fox - Sometimes you just get lucky when it comes to wildlife.

No protection here, just don't step over the red line its a long drop.  The view over the Monfrague Naturel Park from the Castillio de Monfrague

Cork trees that have had their bark removed.  Some have numbers on then to show which year they were harvested.  This is a beautiful habitat that is used commercially in a truly sustainable way.   It is now under threat from the plastic wine cork. 

1st July

After a leisurely breakfast with the sparrows and azure winged magpies joining in, we set off just before lunch back to the National Park.  Went back up the road where we saw the fox and saw two deer drinking in the reservoir.  The water is very green here because of the algae that has formed in the heat.  Sat for a while at the picnic area where the fox had been, then carried on up to the cork forest.  Saw the bee-eaters we had hoped to see, very brightly coloured but too fast moving for any pictures.  Later on we decided we would like to see the cave paintings so went back up to San Carlos visitors centre and booked a guide at 7pm.  The cave paintings were in a cave shelter protected by a locked metal frame.  We were the only ones here and were taken up steep stairs into the shelter.  The guide spoke very good English and she gave us a very detailed talk about the paintings and their meanings.  They had been found by two teachers probably climbing up looking for the vultures nests in the 1970's.  The paintings are from 8,000-10,000 years BC, 5,000 years BC and 500 years BC.  They were painted with iron and manganese oxide mixed with animal fat, saliva and egg and painted onto the walls with fingers, rocks, twigs and brushes. It was a very interesting and worthwhile visit and – totally free! 

The cave paintings

Azure-Winged Magpie waiting to steal our food.

2nd July

Going to pay a visit to Portugal today so another boring motorway drive, Spanish motorways go on for ever with few if any places to stop.  Saw an interesting sight of storks nests on the top of electric pylons complete with storks and their young.  We had read that Portuguese roads were not as good as the Spanish ones and that was not an exaggeration, also the signposting left a lot to be desired. The campsite was so much cheaper than any in Spain – 7.48 euros compared to 20+ euros in Spain.  It has to be said that we found campsite prices in Spain to be far too expensive and in many cases seriously and dangerously crowded.  With tents less than a foot or two away in some sites a fire would be an absolute disaster. 

3rd July

On our way toward the Pyrenees now, passing through a beautiful part of Portugal on the way.  Very old fashioned rural area with lovely old villages.  We even saw an old lady with her donkey and an old man with a scythe over his shoulder heading for a day in the fields.  Saw lots of storks in the fields where everyone was busy harvesting the corn.  We carried on past Pamplona and stopped at a campsite at Lumbiere – famous for its gorges. 

4th July

After a slight mishap when Moira got stung by a rather large wasp for no other reason than she was walking past it, we set off to the Atlantique Pyrenees.  It was a pleasant drive alongside Yesa reservoir which was a deep turquoise colour.  The drive up to Lescun via Jaca was lovely, its nice to be back in the mountains again.  Drove up to the Col du Somport and then all the way back down, then back up to Lescun – into the clouds!  We saw little of the mountains and unfortunately the guidebook which said the campsite was full of flies was correct.  Had a walk up the road in the cloud (mist and flies) enjoying the flowers till it started raining, the first proper rain we had seen for 4 weeks. 

5th July

Very grey with low cloud  when we got up.  Set off to walk to the Lac de Lhurs.  We did not want to take the van so lots of road walking before we got to the start of the path.  As we made our way up through the meadows and woodland we saw lots of orchids, bilberries, rampions and wild strawberries along the wayside.  We aslo saw quite a few vultures including the white Egyptian Vulture which flew very close above us.  It was very hot and humid and as we were still in thick cloud which was looking more and more threatening.  An hour or so later we were still in thick mist and knew we wouldn't have a view at the col.  The mist coupled with the threat of a storm weakened our resolve and we turned round and came back down.  Flies were so bad that evening that we had to eat in the van. 

6th July

This part of the Pyrenees is known to be wetter than further east as it has the influence of the Atlantic and as the cloud was still very low and flies were so bad, we decided to move on.  Followed a road up to the Col de Marie Blanque, along with lots of cyclists.  The Tour de France was in progress and the writing on the road lead us to believe it must have passed this way.  Then up to the Col du Portelet where we stopped for lunch.  The cloud here was starting to break up and we started to get glimpses of the surrounding mountains, including the Pic du Midi D'Ossau a mountain we climbed several years ago. This border area is one of our favourite places in the Pyrenees and we have climbed and trekked quite extensively here over the last 20 years or so. We drove past Formigal (where we skied 20 years ago as well) that has expanded dramatically since we were last here.    As we had expected the weather improved the further east we went.  Decided to stay in Torla, in the Ordesa National Park in a campsite we had stayed in some years before.  The owner even recognised us.  Unfortunately the National Park is now only accessible by bus and even cycles are not allowed into the park during July and August.   Still we were advised by the campsite owner that the weather forecast was for a settled week so we decided to stay. 

The Col du Portelet with the peak of the Pic du Midi  D'Ossau a mountain we climbed several years ago from Gabas

7th July

Cycled up to the Ordesa Park control hut, then turned off up the unmade track to Bujaruelo.  It was uphill all the way alongside the glacial Rio Ara but still great fun with plenty to see.  We continued all the way up to the campsite that is at the top of the track and had a relaxing picnic beside the river in the sun.  Going back down was great and we hardly had to turn a pedal all the way back into Torla.  Had something to eat in a bar and a look around the village.

End of the road for the bikes and a smashing picnic site.  You can walk from here into France.

8th July 

Caught the bus up to the National Park to do the walk up to the Cola de Caballo and back along the Faja de Pelay.  The first time we came here about 15 years ago it was possible to drive up to the park, then they put on a free bus.  Now it costs 4.50 euros to take the bus up to the park.  Strangely there wasn't as many flowers along the walk that we remembered from a previous visits, but there were still some beautiful irises and meadow flowers alongside the stream.  The scenery is spectacular and the geology simply stunning.  Great patches of yellow flowers cast swathes of colour across the landscape.   We eventually got to the waterfall of Cola de Caballo and crossed the river to return along narrow high level path known as the Faja de la Pelay.  Part way along a sign advised us not to set off along it after 3pm.  All along the path side were white Eidelweiss, strange furry flowers that are so different to the delicate alpine flowers such as Harebells, Rock Rose and Saxifrages. As the path climbed higher and became more exposed, we saw a Mouflon in the distance.  It seemed a long time before we came to the very steep descent down through the trees back to the car park.   

View from the Faja de la Pelay towards the upper reaches of the Ordessa Canyon

The upper reaches of the Ordessa Canyon

View towards Monte Perdido, another mountain we climbed several years ago.

9th July

Needed a break today after yesterdays exercise.  Had a walk into the village and had pinchos in a bar with a beer.  Back to the van to read and relax.

10th July

Had a walk from the campsite, up a track signposted Santa Ana.  Instead of following the track all the way, we took footpaths that led straight up, cutting out the bends in the track.  Wonderful flowers and butterflies on the way up.  Eventually we came to Santa Ana that turned out to be a tiny chapel whose door was firmly locked.  We continued up the track to a mirador with an information board showing all the peaks that surrounded us.  It was a wonderful view from there across to the Ordesa Canyon and then into the distance the Vignemale.  The track continues up towards the Refugio which we decided was too much today in the heat.

11th July

As we didn't get up to the top yesterday, we decided we would cycle up yesterdays track and then walk up to the summit.  The track seemed steeper than yesterday and we pushed our bikes on some of the steeper sections.   After about 5 hours of toil we reached Punto Acuta, the highest point of the track.  Then an easy climb up steep grass and scree took us to a magnificent hilltop view down into the Ordesa Canyon.  We also met a few other mountain bikers on the track, doing a circular route that goes into the next valley, a very very long way!  It took about 2 hours to get back down, stopping regularly to stretch our fingers and cool our brakes down.  On the way up we had been passed by jeeps taking tourists up to the Punto Acuta.  In one of the jeeps were the people in the next caravan to us and when we got back they said they had seen us and said how hard it must have been.  Until then they hadn't spoken to us, so once they realised I could speak Spanish it broke the ice and we had a good chat. 

View across the Ordessa canyon from the summit

12th July

Moved on again, shame to leave such a lovely place but time is running out and there is more we want to see and do.  We headed towards Benasque and on the way just after Ainsa, we saw abandoned villages on the other side of the river.  Near one of them was an information board explaining why the village of Janovas was abandoned.  It was such a sad reason – the people were made to move out in the 1950's so the village could be taken over to build a reservoir for the hydro electric power station.  The reservoir was never built but those people did not get their land back.  They are still fighting to this day to be reunited with their houses, streets, land and cemeteries.  Had lunch in Benasque and watched the Tour de France on the TV – they were at the Col du Tourmoulet.  The campsite was not as we remembered, small pitches and rather unkempt.

13th July

Moved on again through the Vielha Tunel following the route of the Tour de France  .  We stopped at the Col D'Aspin for an ice cream, then onto the Col du Tourmoulet.   Just before the Col is the purpose built ski village of  La Mongie – what a monstrosity!  The Pic du Midi de Bigurre dominates the Col but an ugly observatory and buildings ruined the view.  There is a wonderful sculpture of a naked cyclist on the top of the Col, but it was so busy we were unable to find anywhere to stop.  We had planned to park overnight on the col so had no choice but to drive onto Bareges instead to a very busy but basic campsite. 

14th July

Woke up to low cloud and drizzle so headed to Gavarnie.  On the way we saw a sign for a via ferrata that David wanted to do.  I saw the bridge going across the gorge and decided it wasn't for me!  We carried on up to Gavarnie but like the Ordesa, you can only go so far and then have to get a bus.  So we came back down to a campsite near the via ferrata.  David decided to go and do the via ferrata while I waited down by the stream.  It took him about two and a half hours and he said it was steep and exposed in places with 2 overhangs to climb over.  The bridge he said was rather wobbly and was the scariest bit though. 

Very exposed and very wobbly bridge to get the climber across the gully.  Even with protection it felt very precarious. The decent then takes you down the left wall. 

The bridge from the decent route.

Close up of two climbers starting off across the bridge.

15th July

Heading on towards Provence today.  Had a lovely drive to the motorway, through Luz St Saverne, past Lourdes and onto Tarbes.  Came off the motorway and headed off towards Foix in the Cathar Castles region.  Stayed the night in an aire at Mirepoix, a lovely medieval town that was only a short walk away from the aire.  The beautiful Cathedral had a Russian choir practising in it while we were looking around, the acoustics were fantastic.  The wood framed buildings were very interesting and surrounded the central market area.  This evening the centre was being used to host a children's puppet show and judging by the squeals and laughter the kids were really enjoying Guilomo and the Pirate!  We had a meal in the centre before going back to the van and having a chat with our Spanish neighbours.  The local youths seemed to gather in a nearby picnic area but were very polite and spoke to us as we passed. 

Medieval Mirepoix

16th July

Had a walk into the town before we left to buy supplies at the market and do some photography.  Back on the road we headed towards Carcassonne, onto Narbonne, Beziers then off to Adge and Sete.  Between Adge and Sete there is a long causeway with lovely beaches and rows and rows of cars and motorhomes.  The sea looked so inviting, we parked up and spent a couple of hours in the Mediterranean.  Decided to go back to Aigues Mortes for a couple of days and so ended up back at our usual campsite, Camping a la Ferme where Madame recognised us straight away!  The campsites we had passed on the way were full to bursting so we were surprised to find this one really quiet. 

Miles of golden sand near Sete.

17th July

Decided to have a look into St Marie de la Mer as although this is our third visit to the area, we had not been to this town before.  St Marie is the saint of travellers so there are a lot of gypsy camps in the area.  Unfortunately it wasn't the place for motorhomes as nearly all the car parks had height barriers on them and the only one without was 8.50 euros for the day.  As we only wanted to spend an hour or so there, it seemed a bit steep so we carried onto Port St Louis.  It wasn't as touristy there and parking is free so we had a meal and watched the boats come and go in the harbour.  We visited a Produit Regionales stall on the way back and bought some fruit and local wine.  The specialities of the region incidently are the Camargue riz and Listel wine.   It had become very windy while we were away and later on that evening a Dutchman told us it was the Mistral wind which affected people with moods and headaches. 

We kept being bothered by a Leaf Cutter Bee when removing the bikes today and noticed it had actually began building a nest in the bike rack.  This is the second time an insect has decided to build it home on our van on this trip.  While at Torla we noticed a wasp sitting in a recess within the door frame surrounded by a white material.  Closer inspection revealed it has actually started to build a nest and was evicted

Leaf-Cutter Bee using the hollow tube of the bike rack to build its home.  I have no idea what it did when we drove away. 

18th July

Finally going to Provence today, to Dignes Les Bains that we read had an interesting geological area.  We passed an amazing geological sight on the way to Barreme near Digne les Bains.  It was huge with rounded cliffs towering above a village but even though there was a aire de touriste, there was no information about the site at all. 

19th July

Carried on Digne les Bains up a narrow winding road with spectacular views and strange rock formations.  The strated rock looked like dark grey dunes but no sign of the promised fossils!  Parked up in Digne les Bains and tried to find out something about the area.  Strangely there was no information at all about the geology or fossils that we had read about so bought a map of the Verdon Gorge and carried onto there.  On the way we passed a walking sign to a “Fossil Walk” so decided to have a look.  It was a lovely walk through trees with flowers and butterflies along the wayside.    The fossils were protected behind glass panels and were the ancestors of sea cows but you can see the skulls, vertebrae, teeth and ribs.  There were information boards telling us about the Sirenes and the history of the area.  Again near the Verdon Gorge nearly all the campsites were full but the municipal one had plenty of space and it was really friendly and clean. 

The remains of the Sirenes (Mermaids).  They looked similar to a Manatee.

20th JulyMy birthday! Had a drive along the Gorge, what fantastic views!  Part of the road is one way so the way back is along a different road.  Plenty of climbing from the roadside and we saw a number of climbers getting ready to abseil down into the gorge.  Unfortunately it is not possible to do a circular walk so we walked so far along the top of the gorge but then had to come back the same way.  Back at the campsite it was so hot that we went for a swim in the river just along from the campsite.  It was a lovely part of the river with deep pools, so refreshing with all nationalities having a great time.  The whole of Provence seemed to be full of Dutch and Belgiums – where have the French gone?       

21st July

Moving on to the Ardeche today, drove through lovely countryside, gorges & hills – Digne les Bains, Sisteron, Nyons & Port Esprit.  Went to the same campsite we had been to last year (Trois Eaux) and booked a days canoeing for tomorrow (25km for 20 euros each).  It was very busy but we managed to find a private space with some shade as it was so hot.

22nd July

It started raining about 5am, we could hear great big drops hitting the roof of the van. Luckily it didn't last too long and by the time we got up it was still cloudy but dry.  There was far less water in the Ardeche compared to last year and the rapids were nowhere near as fast or exciting as last year but we still managed to get wet.  We had a rumble of thunder half way round but apart from a few spots of rain, it came to nothing.  Then later on the wind started blowing against us making it difficult to paddle, even sending us back upstream.  It took us a lot longer this year due to the wind and it was 4pm before we got to the meeting point.  We had the same driver as last year along with the same Guns 'n Roses music blasting all the way back to the campsite!  We spent the evening walking along the river at the bottom of the campsite, watching the fisherman, chatting to other people and skimming stones until it was too dark to see.

23rd July

We have decided to go back to Florac as we had liked it so much in May.  Again a lovely ride through country roads and beautiful villages.  We stopped at the Pont d'Arc to take photos of the natural stone arch, then through Barjac, St Jean de Maruejols, St Ambroix, La Grand Combe and onto Florac.  Luckily we were able to get into the same campsite as before even though it was very busy.  Had a swim in the river to cool down – a lot less water in the river than in May.  David saw some  Dutch men fishing so he asked them if a licence was needed.  The answer was "yes you will  need one because you are British"!  This was a common thread throughout this trip where we were told good naturedly that the rules in Europe are for the British to obey while the rest of us continue as we have always done - you British do like rules after all.  Later in the evening a van came round selling melons, nectarines and peaches.  The fruit has been so juicy, fresh and sweet, we will miss it when we get back home.  When we were here in May the shelter was provided by a frame covered in a grape vine with tiny flowers.  These flowers were now large bunches of grapes, hanging down ready to pick.

24th July

We were up really early today, the sun was just coming up and it was a lovely peaceful morning with a clear sky.  We collected the bread on the way out and headed up to Le Chalet du Mont Lozere ski centre to walk route number 20 in the Cicerone Guide. It was a lovely walk up to the summit of Mont Lozere (1699m) following the route taken by Robert Louis Stephenson on his walk with his donkey Modestine (Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes 1879).  He loved the Cevennes as it looked so much like his beloved Scotland.  We thought it also looked very much like Teesdale, in fact we  could have been walking down the Dubby Syke track at one point!   We followed a line of mini menhirs up to the summit (there are about 50 of them) and had a sandwich on the top with a group of scouts.  Heading from the summit were marker stones with the Maltese Cross engraved in them.  This region belonged till 1795 to the soldiers of St Jean de Jerusalem who used the stones as boundry markers. 

The summit of Mont Lozere which felt very much like one of our local Pennine Hills

Maltese Cross on the marker stones near the summit.

Back down the other side we came to the Chemin des Chomeurs (Road of the Unemployed) built by out of work local men in 1936.  Along the Chemin des Chomeurs we found an amazing array of wild flowers – Sundews, Dianthus, Thistles, Bedstraws, Crossworts and Orchids.  This coupled with frogs, tadpoles and butterflies made it a photographers dream and we spent rather a long time on our knees.  Back at the campsite I had a chat to a man from Geneva who told me the Cevennes is one of the least polluted areas of France with no motorways or industry.

Broad leaved Sundew. A carnivorous plant in that it traps insects to survive. 

25th July

Cycled in Florac today to explore the town.  What a beautiful town with a lovely waterway running through the town centre with large fish swimming around.  I discovered a pottery shop with amazing bowls, tiles and jewellery, great for design ideas.  David wanted to take photos so we bought some presents then cycled back to the campsite to get rid of the shopping and get his camera.  By the time we got back there was an instrumental band playing and a jazz band in the next square.  Unfortunately we had left it a bit late to find somewhere for lunch and all the cafes were full.  They were also in the process of setting up table for a big banquet that night.

26th July

Last stop of our journey was going to be the Dordogne, so we set off again in the heat though it was a little more cloudy than it had been.  Back through St Eminie, Rodez, Figeac – retracing our steps the first time we came to the Gorge du Tarn a few years ago.  Again we managed to get into our usual campsite in the Dordogne (Camping La Plage). By 5pm it was so hot we had to have a dip in the river. 

27th July

Decided to have another days canoeing so up early and at the canoe hut at 9.15am.  It was the same girl working in the hut and she told me she was at university in Corsica studying botany.  She wanted to come to England to visit Kew Gardens.  We floated along watching the bright turquiose Damoiselle damselflies flitting and displaying in the river weed and heard the Kites crying overhead.  It got quite cloudy and windy so we had to paddle hard again later on.  Had a meal out in a restaurant in La Roque Gageac, lovely French cooking and wine

28th July

Woke up at 6am and the whole campsite was shrouded in mist.  By 9am it had moved to the field next door and the river seemed to be steaming.  Decided to have a cycle today to complete our final day of our trip.  Set off along the field from the campsite through woods, tracks and roads that are so lovely in the Dordogne.  It is like old England before the developers destroyed it, full of  flowers, sloes, blackberries, elderberries and hedgerow plants.  We hardly saw anyone on the roads, tracks or in the villages we passed through.  We stopped for an ice cream at a campsite shop where there were chickens wings spread sunbathing - I kid you not!  We then followed the track to the Chateau des Milandes where we discovered the painting of Josephine Baker and her children David had photographed on the wall a few years ago had been removed.  What a shame, it was a lovely scene but at least David had a photo from a previous visit.  We also discovered a garden of remembrance for Josephine Baker, the 1920's music hall star.  The garden had been made in 2006 for what would have been her 100th birthday.  It was beautifully laid out with great attention to detail, it even had banana trees in it in memory of her famous banana dance.  There was a hut/shelter with photos, copies of letters and information about her career in the music hall, her involvement with the French Resistance during the war and her “Rainbow Tribe” of children.  Later we had another swim in the river and then back to the restaurant for another meal – well it was our last night.

The heat eventually got to Moira

Statue in the garden of remembrance for Josephine Baker and the Rainbow Children.

29th July

David's birthday and time to set off home.  We called in at La Roque Gageac to pick up a case of wine at the Regional Produits shop.  I missed the turning off to the motorway so we ended up adding about an hour to our journey but it was a nice drive through Gourdon.  Another very hot day, so we decided to stay the night at Salbris where we had stayed on the way down.  It would leave a shorter drive tomorrow.  We were given a nice spot by the lake, so we sat and watched the ducks.  The campsite seemed to be full of Dutch people again (David thought that the Netherlands were being run on a skeleton staff as they all seemed to be in France!!), at least they are friendly and have a great sense of humour.  In May I had said this campsite had good showers, now I have lots to compare them with and I can safely say these showers were at the top of the good shower charts!  After dinner we were watching the world go by when the Dutch women next to us jumped up and ran across to the lake.  There was a crowd of people watching something so we had to have a look.  It was a coypu who had come up to the edge to have a biscuit – the Dutch woman was feeding it by hand!  We were told that there used to be a lot of coypus on the lake but now there was only one left. 

Friendly Coypu

30th July

Last leg of the journey, we set of early to Calais to give us plenty of time.  It was a lot cooler today and quite cloudy, much better for travelling.  It was a boring ride up the motorway and across the N154 where there is not many places to stop.  Food is very expensive in the motorway shops so we made a sandwich with our 80c baguette!  Not looking forward to the English food on the ferry and the drive back at home!  The sky cleared a bit further north but it was nowhere near as warm as it had been and the wind increased the closer we got to Calais.