“If you find yourself at a table full of fashionistas and everyone is dropping names (which hardly ever happens), this should help you get by…”
-Nina Garcia (b. 1965), fashion director for Marie Claire magazine.
1. 1920s:
The trends to know: the flapper, bobbed hair, higher hemlines, lower waistlines.
The names to know:
- Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel (1883-1971): jersey-knit dresses, two-tone shoes, the LBD (Little Black Dress).
- Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946): complex trimmings, embroideries, and beaded decorations in light, clear, floral colors.
- Jean Patou (1880-1936): introduced sportswear for women, knitted swimwear, the tennis skirt.
- Paul Poiret (1879-1944): his heyday was pre-1920 (circa 1909-1914), when he helped liberate us from the corset and introduced the world to female pantaloons; he designed through the twenties.
2. 1930s:
The trends to know: return to femininity and glamour, backless dresses, nylon hosiery.
The names to know:
- Madeleine Vionnet (1876-1975): flowing, feminine clothes; created the cowl neck and the halter top.
- Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973): first to use art in her clothing; also used zippers, shoulder pads, buttons, bright colors (her signature “shocking pink”).
- Madame Grès (1903-1993): revolutionary in her intricate draperies and impeccable cuts.
3. 1940s:
The trends to know: day dresses, blouses with bow-detailing, military looks.
The names to know:
- Christian Dior (1905-1957): reestablishes Paris as fashion center, revives haute couture, reintroduces glamour with “The New Look” (tight waist, stiff petticoats, billowing skirt), signifies the end of the war.
- Bonnie Cashin (1907-2000): made boots a major fashion accessory.
- Claire McCardell (1905-1958): first American sportswear concept for women.
4. 1950s:
The trends to know: high heels, pencil skirt, shape and volume.
The names to know:
- Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972): brought us balloon dresses, tunic dresses, chemise dresses, and the empire line.
- Givenchy (b. 1927): first “marriage” of a designer and a movie star (Audrey Hepburn), made the little black dress famous, introduced separates.
- Chanel (1883-1971): returns, bucks “The New Look,” introduces the famous braided suit with gold chains, costume jewelry, monogrammed buttons, quilted bags on chains.
–Excerpted from “The Little Back Book of Style,” written by Nina Garcia, 2007.
