LUCCA — When it feels like the popular Tuscan destinations are more crowded with English speakers than Italian, it’s time to head to Lucca. Nestled in the foothills of the Apennines, only a short detour from the tourist magnets of Pisa and Florence, Lucca is an authentic, immersive Tuscan experience.

The historic center of the city is surrounded by the original, intact, Renaissance-era defensive walls. Enter from Porta Santa Maria, the northern gate to the old city, and you arrive in a bustling piazza with cafes and a few bike shops. If you want wheels, it is best to rent a bike. It is almost impossible to get around by car within the walls, as car traffic is prohibited on most streets for all but residents.

A former two-lane road atop the walls has been converted into a bike path and promenade, accessible by steps or ramps at several points. This perch is a great way to survey the old city and its tile roofs, medieval churches and towers, and Roman-era amphitheater before you explore at street level. As you walk along, peek into the villas and courtyards below. One of the loveliest is Palazzo Pfanner, which was built for a family of silk merchants. The lush, formal gardens have been the setting of several films, including Jane Campion’s “Portrait of a Lady.’’ The grounds and residence are open for tours from April through October.