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Guaranteed departure date expedition to Lenin Peak Lenin Peak Expedition. Climb Lenin Peak. Lenin peak's range climbing Special offer Lenin Peak 2013 Backcontry camp at Lenin peak 2013 Guaranteed departure date expeditions to "Lenin peak 2013" with experienced guide Lenin Peak - Ibn Sina Peak (7134 m.)
Key InformationTour Duration: 21 day(s)Group Size: 1 - 15 people Destination: Kyrgyzstan Location: Lat/Lon: 39.34690°N/72.86920°E Specialty Categories: Mountain Climbing/Ascending Mountain Peaks Season: July - September International Airfare Included: No Local Airfare Included: Yes Personal Travel Insurance Included: No Personal Equipment Included: No Tour Customizable: Yes Price Per Person: 780 Euro / 640 Euro Self Guided Mountain Guides Availability: Yes Mountain Guide Service: 1000 Euro The Recommended Guide:Climber Ratio: 1:3 Note: - Climbing to 7000m requires excellent physical fitness and good health. You must be able to walk at altitude for several days consecutively. Average walking time is around 6-7 hours per day. Daily altitude gain is about 500-800 m. You need to be able to handle adverse weather and be comfortable camping on snow covered ground. - Your insurance should permit you to work on a height above 4200 m. Note: Base Camp Achik-Tash will be active between 1st July and 12th September Expedition to Lenin Peak.
Ibn Sina Peak, formerly Lenin Peak (Russian: Ïèê Ëåíèíà, Tajik: Qullai
Lenin; renamed Ibn Sina Peak in July 2006), rises to 7,134 m on the border
between Kyrgyzstan and Tadjikistan, where the Pamirs and the Tian Shan come
together. They form the border between Osh Province, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.
Lenin Peak is the highest peak in the Trans-Alay Range (also Trans Alai), which
is the northernmost range of the Pamir Mountains. To the north is the Alay
Valley. Lenin Peak is one of only five 7000 meter peaks in the former USSR. It
was thought to be the highest point in the Pamirs until 1933, when Ismail Samani
Peak (known as Stalin Peak at the time, lately renamed Communism Peak) was
climbed and found to be more than 300 metres higher (7,495 m). At 7134 meters it is the third highest, the others being Peak Communism (7495m) and Korzhenevsky (7105m), both in the Pamirs, and Peak Pobeda (7,439m) and Khan Tengri (7010m) in the Tien Shan. To climb all five admits you to the elite group of Russian climbers known as Snow Leopards. Lenin Peak is considered the most accessible 7000-meter mountain. There is a high way going almost to the foot of the peak. Also Lenin Peak by the normal Razdelny route is practically no technical climbing involved. |
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Skype: dmitriy.page
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Expedition of classical (Razdelnaya Route and NW Ridge) Description
Base camp is situated in Achik-Tash (3600m). It is about 8 hours drive from Osh. Last section of the way (starting from Sary-Mogol village) is impassable for a car. Therefore we should walk, crossing two steep river valleys Qizil-Suu and Achik-Tash. The ground is a carpet of wild garlic and alpine flowers. From BC we head over the Puteshestvinnikov Pass (4200m). The ascent usually takes 1-1.5 hours by a good path. Sometimes there is snow on the pass. Then we descend to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier. Further we should cross the river carefully. The best time for crossing is early morning, as the river rises rapidly throughout at this time. Across the left moraine of glacier to the Lenin glacier (4100m) and hike to camp 1 (4200 m).We also consider camp 1 as BC2, because it has almost the same facilities as the camp in Achik-Tash.
From camp 1 at 4200 meters, we cross the dry Lenin Glacier and ascend the long snow slopes which run directly to the summit (north face). At 5000 meters we traverse to the west and, ascending gently, we arrive at the rim of a large snow basin. We cross this, traversing beneath Razdelny Peak. A short climb up a scree/snow slope leads to camp 2 (5300 m). There are a few crevasses on this section of the route but it is straightforward snow plodding. It is, however, a long and tiring day, and an early start is needed to avoid the worst effects of the sun. Directly above camp 2 is an easy-angled couloir which leads to the north ridge of Razdelny Peak (6148 meters). Initially the ridge is almost level, but as we approach Razdelny Peak the angle steepens.
The final 400 meter climb to the summit of Razdelny Peak is straight-forward but the effects of altitude make it hard work. The views from the summit are superb. To the north we can finally get the true perspective of the Alai Plain while to the south there are a multitude of snowy peaks. Peak Communism and Korzhenevsky dominate our view of the south Pamirs. Further east the Wakhan and Hindu Kush are clearly visible, and on a good day it is possible to make out Tirich Mir. From Razdelny Peak the ridge dog-legs to the west and drops down 100 metres to Razdelny Pass at 6000 metres. It is here that we will make camp 3.
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From camp 3 we will have two options. Either we climb directly to the summit and back to camp 3 in one long day, or we place a fourth camp at about 6400 meters. From camp 3 we follow the broad ridge to a plateau (the site of camp 4) at 6400 meters. We traverse this back to the ridge proper where it steepens to form a short step which is turned on the north side. Above this the ridge is broken and rocky until we reach a large snow plateau. We traverse this and rejoin the ridge just below the summit. The views from the summit at 7134, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China. Further in the distance is the Hindu Kush and further west still the Karakorum.
List of items, which will be of use:
1) Garments, footwear - a standard high-altitude set
2) Camp gear - a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes.
3) Climbing gear - ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots
4) High-altitude foodstuff
Basic program: 21 days
| Day 1. | Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel |
| Day 2. | Flight to Osh, trahsfer Osh-Achik-Tash |
| Day 3. | Acclimatization ascent of Petrovskogo peak. |
| Day 4. | Descent to the base camp. |
| Day 5. | Preparation day |
| Day 6. | Climb to the camp N1. 4200 m. |
| Day 7. | Climb to the camp N2. 5300 m. |
| Day 8. | Climb to the camp N3. 6100 m. |
| Day 9. | Descent to the camp N1. |
| Day 10. | Descent to the base camp 3500 m. |
| Day 11. | Rest day. |
| Day 12. | Preparation day. |
| Day 13. | Climb to camp N1. |
| Day 14. | Climb to camp N2. |
| Day 15. | Climb to camp N3. |
| Day 16. | Climb to camp N4. 6400 m. |
| Day 17. | Ascent of the summit 7134 m. and descent to the camp N3. |
| Day 18. | Descent to the camp N1. |
| Day 19. | Descent to the base camp. 3500 m. |
| Day 20. | Transfer to Osh |
| Day 21. | Flight to Bishkek. Accommodation in a hotel |
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Transport schedule (Osh - BC - Osh) for :
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July |
6, 13, 15, 20, 22, 23, 27, 29, 30 |
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August |
3, 5, 6, 7, 10, 12, 14, 19, 21, 26, 28 |
Your guides
We recommend your group to be accompanied by one or more Mountain Guides of
ClimberCA team, working under the direction of Ilyas Tuhvatullin,
who 30.05.2004 reached the summit of
Mt. Everest via a demanding new line up the Central Pillar of Everest's North Face; 22.08.2007 reached the summit of
K2 (Chogori) along the center of the Western face – abrupt rocky bastion etc
... and made the
first ascent along Khan Tengri North
Face Center, in two-man team, alpine style, for 8 days.For further information and booking please e-mail us
your@climberca.com or pagetour@ya.ru
Our Guides will be supported by a team of local porters and cooks who are responsible for organizing the camps, carrying the group equipment and cooking all meals. The recommended guide:climber ratio is 1:3.
Prices for guides service in :
1 person - 1000 Euro.
2 persons - 650 Euro/pers.
3 persons - 500 Euro/pers.
In accordance with your desire we can arrange a summit attempt expedition on any of these three routes chosen by you.
Price of the program Bishkek - Bishkek: 780 euro per person
Price of "full package" includes:
- boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary)
- meeting/seeing off at the airport
- all transfers according to the program
- flight Bishkek - Osh - Bishkek and back (please note that local airlines allow only
15 kilo free of charge luggage! Extra kilo costs about 0,5 EURO)
- accommodation at hotels with breakfasts (in Osh and Bishkek; not more than 4 nights)
- lunch en route to/from BC
- rent of walkie-talkie
- registration with rescue team
- ecological fee
- air flights confirmation
Price of the program Osh-Osh: 640 euro per person.
Includes:
" Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary)
" Meeting/seeing off the airport
" All transfers according to the program
" Accommodation at hotels with breakfasts ( not more than 2 nights)
" Lunch en route to/from BC
| Services in the base camp "Achik Tash" on 3600m: | Services in the camp 1 on 4200m: |
| Accommodation in double tents. Each tent is equipped with mattresses and wooden platforms and electricity. | Accommodation in double tents with mattresses and wooden platforms. |
| Meals - full board | Meals - full board |
| Guide-consultant's services | Guide-consultant's services |
| Dining-tent, WC, storage, baths and shower | Dining-tent, WC tent, storage tent |
| Medical aid in the base camp (professional doctor) | Medical kit |
| Electricity 220V, permanent source of electricity! | Electricity 220V, 50HZ |
The cost does not include:
- The cost of Kyrgyz visa
- International flightt
- All optional deviations from the main itinerary
- Beverages and meals not included in main menu
- All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.)
- The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending
- The rent of mountaineering equipment for ascending
Prices for guides service for :
1 person - 1000 Euro.
2 persons - 650 Euro/pers.
3 persons - 500 Euro/pers.
Prices for porters service for :
BC - C1 (4200 m) - 2 Euro/kg
C1 - C2 (5300 m) - 8 Euro/kg
C2 - C3 (6100 m) - 16 Euro/kg
* The price is same for carrying up and carrying down.
Additional Service, prices for :
Rent of tents for high camps - 50 Euro/program
Gas cartridges of 230 g (butane/propane) - 5 Euro/cartridge
International call by satellite telephone - 3 Euro/min.
Internet access - 20 Euro/hour
If you still have a question, please contact us via e-mail.
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Attention!
Please note that the above itinerary is intended to be a guideline only. Unforeseen problems with team fitness could occur and there is always the threat of bad weather to force last minute changes. This period will also include essential rest days taken at Base Camp. 1) Full package Bishkek-Bishkek + additional services in : 1160 euro/person The cost includes: * guaranteed installed high altitude tents (3 persons in one tent) on 5300 m, 6200 m * boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary) * meeting/seeing off at the airport * all transfers according to the program * flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek and back (please note only 15 kg incl. hand luggage are free of charge!; Extra kilo costs about 0,5 EURO) * accommodation in hotels with breakfasts (in Osh and Bishkek; in total 4 nights only!) * lunch en route to/from BC * rent of walkie-talkie * registration with rescue team * ecological fee 2) Full package Bishkek-Bishkek + additional services in : 1280 euro/person The cost includes: * guaranteed installed high altitude tents (3 persons in one tent) on 5300 m, 6200 m * group equipment: rope (if needed), gas and gas stoves, cooking set. * high altitude food * boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary) * meeting/seeing off at the airport * all transfers according to the program * flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek and back (please note only 15 kg incl. hand luggage are free of charge!; Extra kilo costs about 0,5 EURO) * accommodation in hotels with breakfasts (in Osh and Bishkek; in total 4 nights only!) * lunch en route to/from BC * rent of walkie-talkie * registration with rescue team * ecological fee Services included in both packages:
The cost does not include:
* The cost of Kyrgyz visa * International flight * All optional deviations from the main itinerary * Beverages and meals not included in main menu * All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.) * The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending * The rent of mountaineering equipment for ascending Prices for guides service for year: 1-3 persons - 1000 Euro (1 guide) Prices for porters service for year: BC - C1 (4400 m) - 2 Euro/kg * The price is same for carrying up and carrying down..
Rent of tents for high camps - 50 Euro/program Transport schedule Osh - BC “Achik Tash” - Osh for :
List of items, which will be of use: 1) Garments, footwear — a standard high-altitude set 2) Camp gear – a tent (is advisable to be of high-peak standard), a sleeping bag, a sleeping pad, a gas stove, plates and dishes. 3) Climbing gear – ice-axe, crampons, harness, self-security line, 2 x Screwgate karabiners, plastic mountaineering boots 4) High-altitude foodstuff |
Facts of Lenin Peak
* Lenin Peak was discovered by the Russian explorer A.P. Fedchenko in 1871. Its steep flanks are covered with glaciers. The first ascent was made in 1928 from the south by German alpinists included in the First Pamirs Expedition of the Academy of Sciences of the U.S.S.R. The first ascent by Soviet climbers, from the north, followed in 1934.* Lenin Peak is one of the easiest 7000m peaks in the world and technically speaking, it's a straightforward climb, similar in grade to Mont Blanc or Elbrus. Nevertheless it is a very high peak (over 2300m higher than Mont Blanc) so it is by no means an “easy summit”. The route follows a well-explored trail that includes some steep and exposed stretches on ridges. Between base camp and camp 2 is heavily glaciated and there is a small risk of avalanches. Winter mountaineering experience and use of ice axe and crampons is essential. Although technically straightforward neither the ascent nor the mountain should be underestimated since both are Himalayan in character. High altitude and adverse weather are the main concerns.
* In 1928 the USSR Academy of Science sponsored the systematic exploration of Pamir. Some German mountaineers who took part in the expedition tried to climb up Lenin Peak via the southern side along the Saukdara glacier, through the present-day Krilenko Pass (5,820 m) and then along the eastern ridge. In 1934 participants of Pamir training expedition of Red Army N. Chernuha, I.Lukin, V.Abalakov made an ascent on the top of Lenin Peak and it was supposed to be the frist ascent. Only 33 years later was discovered that peak was already climbed by Germans E. Allvein, K. Vin and E, Schneider on 25 o September 1928.
Mountain Safety
As ascending Mountain peaks imply a sojourn in high mountains, everyone must follow specific safety rules. An accident while mountain climbing generally has unexpected and negative consequences. A seemingly small mistake, such as twisting an ankle in loose rocks, can quickly turn into a dangerous situation if the climber is on difficult terrain and is still some distance from the base camp. Climbers can minimize the consequences of these mistakes by traveling in groups, carrying first aid equipment, and being cautious in their route planning. Alpine climbers are also exposed to perils beyond their control, such as hidden crevasses and avalanches, and because of the inhospitable environment of most mountains, they risk exposing themselves to hypothermia and altitude sickness. Experienced mountaineers plan ahead for all contingencies and let others know their destination and planned return time.
Crevasses are deep ice fissures or large cracks within a glacier. Many times crevasses are hidden under a covering of snow, making them difficult to identify. Their steep, slippery sides make them almost impossible to climb out of without assistance. For this reason, climbers often rope together and secure themselves to each other when traveling on glaciers and snowfields. Should one partner fall in a crevasse, the other can break the fall and then pull their partner out.
Avalanches are sudden flows of a large mass of snow or ice down a slope or cliff, sometimes at speeds exceeding 160 km/h (100 mph). They occur when heavy snowfall accumulates on steep slopes and the underlying snow pack cannot support the new snow’s weight. Mountaineers can minimize avalanche dangers by staying aware of rapid changes of weather, especially increases in temperature and wind. They should also avoid steep, narrow chutes that provide ideal channels for avalanches.
Hypothermia occurs when the body becomes too chilled to generate enough warmth for vital organs such as the heart and lungs. Most climbers understand that hypothermia is a danger during extremely cold weather, but it also can occur when temperatures are well above freezing. In fact, most cases occur when the outside temperature is from 7° to 10°C (45° to 50°F). Avoiding hypothermia requires several simple precautions. Mountain climbers should stay dry and avoid cotton clothing, which dries slowly and sucks away body warmth as it does dry. They should eat, drink water, and rest frequently, helping them maintain energy levels.
Altitude sickness, also known as mountain sickness, is caused by insufficient oxygen at high elevations. It causes dizziness, shortness of breath, and confusion, and it can strike climbers at any elevation above 2,400 m (about 8,000 ft). Mountaineers who ascend to higher altitudes often take a day or two to become accustomed to their new environment. They climb slowly when going above 4,500 m (15,000 ft). If climbers develop symptoms of altitude sickness, they should descend immediately to a lower altitude before the condition worsens. Some climbers use bottled oxygen to combat the effects of the sickness and aid their efforts at higher altitudes.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lenin_Peak
http://encarta.msn.com/encyclopedia_761568485_3/Mountain_Climbing.html
http://mirslovarei.com/content_beo/Efremov-Filipp-Sergeev-5360.html
Efremov,
Filipp, Devyatiletnee stranstvovanie [Nine Years’ Long Travel], 1852
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