peaceout2011

I loved this town. I loved my pension. I loved the food and drink. I really loved the spa. I loved the hiking, running, and walking along this coastal town. I even loved learning about the town history AND visiting the churches.

But….

I struggled a bit with the solo travelling element in this lively place. People were out in full party mode when I arrived on Saturday. Their football team was playing that night and it was an important match. The pedestrian streets of old town were jammed pack with people in blue and white. While I loved the atmosphere and the smiling spanish people, I let the fear of not knowing where to be and the language barrier get the better of me. I needed my people here to fully experience this town. Or, the randomness of meeting fun people looking to share this cool place.

Pintxos, basque for tapas, are what one eats here for breakfast, lunch and dinner, 9am, 2 pm, and 10pm, respectively. You have to go into a bar, read the menu and look at what is out and take/request your items. While this is cool for being on my own it’s also terrifying at first. I started with a bar in Place de Constitution where there were tables out in the square so it felt safer.

I also managed to order the local wine, txakoli (seriously Basque, must you have all these x’s in your words? I’m already challenged enough with Spanish). I liken it to a vinho verde, a bit of sweetness, good acidity, low alcohol, and some effervescence. Tori, you would like this wine. The bartenders also do a fancy long pour and serve it in a lemonade type glass. I enjoyed many glasses in my 4 days in town.

I also had a tryst with the Jamon Iberico here. I first purchased the Spanish ham at a butcher shop for a make your own sandwich. The butcher guy was so nice there that I returned each day to say hello and buy a little something. Stalker perhaps? He didn’t seem to mind.

I mastered the bar order pintxos at Astelehenas, Lo siento, no habla espanol, and got some English in return. I picked two items, squid and an asparagus/shrimp crepe that got fried, yum, and he picked two, the foie and the beef cheek. OMG the beef cheek. Part way through my meal, I went back in to inform him that my drink must have spilled cause I needed another. All this goodness was only 18 euros. Good deal for a pricey town. One meal seemed enough that day.

The vistas hiking (walking really) up Mount Urgull were incredible. Also good sunsets from the beautiful beaches.

A little bit on the churches, and the sculpture, the Cross of the Peace, that I learned on a city walking tour.

The Basilica of Santa Maria, built between 1743 and 1774, is an 18th Century baroque church in the heart of old town. Inside is the sculpture of the Eduardo Chillida cross, La Cruz de la Paz. This more modern cross was carved out the same piece of alabaster as the the other cross found at the Cathedral del Buen Pastor. The largest church in San Sebastian was constructed in the 19th Century. On the main façade “La Cruz de la Paz” sculpted by Eduardo Chillida (The Cross of Peace) stands out. There appears to be a yin and yang going on with these two peices, with this more rustic version, placed on outside of the church. Anyway, I thought it cool enough to snap a few pictures.

I must also mention La Perla spa. Full on water therapy spa with 5 different pools for different issues. They also make you swim in the sea even though all the surfers are wearing wet suits! This was a true luxury and at a low cost – 24 euros for 2 hours.

I would like to revisit San Sebastian with some friends so let me know who is up for it!

~ by lp on May 30, 2011.

Posted in Travel
Tags: La Perla, Pintxos, San Sebastian, Spain, Txakoli