Gone to Swan

I have never visited Italy. It’s one of the places that I know I will visit, it just hasn’t happened yet.

For years I have indulged in the distinct cuisines of this Mediterranean country and been consistently reminded of the devotion to local ingredients and the regional pride for cheese, wine and other gourmet delicacies.

Dining at Ceno reminded me why I need to visit Italy – the welcoming aperitif and the friendliness of the staff put me in a relaxed mood immediately. The elegant surroundings of this Yorkville restaurant, free of pretension like many of its neighbours, welcomed quiet conversation with a focus on simple Italian cuisine done well.

My friend and I started with a Fresh winter salad, a healthy mix of arugula, tomatoes and walnuts and Canadian salmon carpaccio with imported Italian mozzarella di bufala. The carpaccio was sweet and fresh, a very pleasing way to start a meal for a fussy salmon-obsessed girl from BC.

I indulged next with the Braised Lamb Shank, slow cooked with onions and double smoked bacon, served over parsnip puree. I do not love winter, but the season allows me to indulge in rich and hearty main courses like this – I ate slowly to savour every bite, enjoying the jazz vocalist that enhanced the restaurant’s mellow ambiance.

My friend chose the Dover Soul with pine nuts and white wine lemon sauce. Let’s just say if it could have been served as a side dish, she would have just eaten the sauce. (although the fish was perfectly cooked too).

We felt pleasantly full but couldn’t give up and refuse dessert – I chose the Autumn Pear poached in red wine, my friend the Flourless Chocolate Cake. Both lovely, simple and not too rich as a last course.

My only complaint – the vegetables served with the main dishes were bland – felt like an after thought of the busy kitchen, seemingly included more for presentation than for the palate. But the the star shines brightly on the mains – done very well with modern Italian flair.

If you’re in search for the path to contemporary Italian cuisine that knows its roots in traditional cuisine – Ceno is the perfect spot to impress, indulge and lure you to plan a trip.

Ceno Restaurant, 137 Avenue Road (Yorkville) 647-352-8822 $$