St Marys, Georgia: My kind of town

Why St Marys?
St Marys is on the south-eastern tip of the state of Georgia at the mouth of the St Marys river. It’s also the gateway to Cumberland Island, one of the American South’s last untouched treasures (www.cumberlandisland.org).

Wild horses still roam there and the tempo of life is governed by shrimp-boats, pelicans, sprawling oak trees, swings for two, buckets of beer, sidewalks where people say “How are you?”, white clapboard buildings and picket fences and folk who aren’t in a hurry.

What’s the first thing you do when you return?
Check in on some friends and put my name on the waiting list at Sterling’s.

Where’s the best place to stay?
My first choice would be Greyfield Inn on Cumberland Island (001 904 261 6408; www.greyfieldinn.com; doubles from £197; two-might minimum stay). The price is high and access is by ferry or private boat charter, but it is a wonderfully romantic experience. If you want to stay in St Marys proper, try the Goodbread b&b (912 882 3430; www.goodbreadhouse.com; from £49), which is within walking distance of the river, the park and restaurants.

Where would you meet friends for a drink?
Any of the streetside pubs along Osborne or West St Marys Street. Or the bar at Sterling’s.

Where are your favourite places for lunch?
A picnic on Cumberland is tough to beat. Take the first ferry out in the morning, spend the day walking the island, picnic on the beach. Stroll the ruins of Dungeness, then take the afternoon ferry back. Of the establishments, top of the list must be fried shrimp and cold beer overlooking the river at Lang’s Marina Restaurant. The Lang family has been in the shrimp business a long time and they know how to cook it. There’s also Seagle’s or the Riverside Café. All are on West St Marys.

And for dinner?
Sterling’s. Make a reservation. And come hungry. Make sure you try the crab bisque soup, the crab cakes, the fried shrimp, the grits and… my mouth is watering just writing about it. You can’t go wrong.

Where would you send a first-time visitor?
I’d start at the park overlooking the river - it’s a good way to get your bearings. Not to mention the fact that the coppery-bronze sunsets are unmatched. Then, maybe grab a beer on West St Marys and watch the shrimp-boat captains empty their nets amid the hundreds of dive-bombing seagulls and pelicans that feast there. Even the locals come out to watch this.

What would you tell them to avoid?
Leaving, if possible.

Public transport or taxi?
St Marys can be covered on foot. If you need “wheels” stick your thumb in the air and flag down a local in his golf cart.

Handbag or moneybelt?
In my experience, folks in St Marys are less concerned with your money and more concerned with your friendship and your experience in their town.

What should I take home?
Aside from the 10lb you just gained eating and drinking your way along West St Marys? Marianne Thomas, the owner of Sterling’s, has put her recipes in a cookbook, one of the best souvenirs you can find in St Marys. Even if cooking is not your thing, her vignettes and stories are worth the price of the book.

And if I’ve only time for one shop?
Up the Creek Xpeditions (www.upthecreektrips.com) is the best kayak store in town. Book a private kayak tour up the river or buy a hat to keep the sun off your face and a pair of sandals that allow the sand to sift through your toes. The shop is located on Osborne Street, near the intersection with West St Marys. You can’t miss it. Just look out for the kayaks.

• Charles Martin is an American novelist. His new book, Where the River Ends (Ebury Press, £6.99), is set in the Deep South and takes in St Marys.