BlueOvalTech Logo

How To Repair the Power Window Regulator / Motor

How to change or repair the power window regulator / motor or replace the window, by bmstichter

2004 F150 through 2008 F-150 - Full Size Doors - Side windows only - (Crew Cab all 4) - (Regular cab and Super cab front 2)

Can be done in as little as 1-2 hours, I would allow more time just to be sure

Tools Required

Optional Supplies

Procedure

Step 1 - Locate the screws that hold the door panel on:
(2)- By the door handle
(2)- At the bottom of the panel

To get to the screws by the door handle you need to remove the access panel. Remove all (4) fasteners and save them.

Door panel removal

Step 2 - This is where the trim removal tool starts to come in handy

You will need to remove the window control panel by prying it upward at the seam, opposite side of the door panel. Once pried up it will be able to be removed by sliding it away from the door panel.

There is a quick connect piece that is connected into the control panel there is a button on it that releases the connector. Press the button and separate it to remove the control panel.

Door panel removal for power window fix

Disconnect electrical connections

Step 3 - You now need to remove the door panel

There is one more screw that is holding the door panel on; it is in the cavity that is left when you removed the control panel (I used a screwdriver bit with a ¼ inch socket wrench and a bit adapter, but a flexible shaft, on a bit driver, or a small enough screwdriver would work fine) mine was a Phillips head.

There are clips that hold the door panel in place I like the trim removal tool because it pops them off easily Either way you will need to pry off the door panel it takes a bit of pressure but they will come out Be careful not to pull too hard because the door handle is still going to be attached to the door panel, when all of the clips are out lift the panel upwards there is a lip that sits inside the window opening.

To remove the door handle assembly you need to pry the tabs back that hold it into the panel (try to be careful not to break them). You then need to push the assembly through the opening towards the inside of the cab, then turn it and pull the door panel off making sure that the assembly passes through sideways so that it wont get caught up on the panel.

Remove door handle assembly

You might then need to remove a plastic bracket that is sticking out of the door.

Remove plastic bracket

For the rear window- there will be an extra piece of trim that will need to be removed.

Extra piece on rear window

Step 4 - There is a water shield on the inside of the door that needs to be removed.

Basically you peel it off the plastic layer from the adhesive leave some in the door so it can be replaced easily (if you don't get it dirty.)
I have found that it is easiest to start in the corner and work my way around keeping my direction of pull going with the adhesive, never having my hands more than a foot away to keep minimal stretching to the plastic barrier. And if you have trouble starting a utility knife can help, but makes sure to cut the adhesive leaving some on the door and some on the plastic. Put it in a place that won't get dirty so that it can be put back on easily without other adhesives.

Watershield removal

Step 5 - Once you have the water shield off you can see the regulator and mounting bolts (Green) and regulator as well as the window clamps and the window clamps. The clamps for my window gave the option if a socket or torx bit. Either one will work, just make sure that they fit.

Regulator and mounting bolts

Power Window Fix Repair

At this point I would recommend attempting to protect your window it is extremely likely that if you have tint they will end up scratched during this step if you don't, and they might get scratched either way. I tried masking tape around where I thought was in jeopardy but I was not successful. You might be but I would suggest covering the whole window if you have tint.

I would also tape off and protect any painted surface that the glass might make contact with possibly use towels to pad but it can't be too thick of a barrier it is a tight fit. This is also a good time to prepare a place to place the window once it is removed.

Pay close attention to the way that the weather stripping is in place.

NOTE: THE PROCEDURE IS DIFFERENT FOR THE FRONT AND BACK WINDOWS

Front Windows

For the Front window I found that the easiest place to reach the window clamp bolts was about half way up, but adjust it so you can get to both of them. (You are able to move the window up and down once one bolt is loosened so you can get to the other easer)
Loosen the two bolts holding the window in just enough for them to let the window loose, and then lower the window all the way down

Next remove the weather stripping around the window there should be two pieces.

To remove the window you will need to slide it out of the clamps that you loosened lower it down beside the regulator, and begin to lift it out, but as you do you will need to rotate the window 90° the rear part of the window should come out first while the front tilts down. (This is where you will want to take your time, and it helps to have a second set of hands)
Also the front window is removed on the outside of the window frame.

Rear Windows

For the rear windows while similar to the front there are differences. I found that it is easiest to get one of the bolts for the clamps while the other was easier with the window all the way up. After the clamps are loosened lower the window completely, remove the weather stripping around the window opening.

Remove the window from the clamps and lower the window into the door all the way down. There are two grooves in the window one is easier to get the window out of than the other (I believe that it was the inside one).

You will need to pull the window up without rotating it and I believe that it can be removed easier if the window goes to the inside of the window frame.

Step 6

Now that the window is removed and out of the way it is time to remove the window regulator. There are (4) green bolts inside of the door that hold the regulator tracks in place and there is (1) bolt that secures the motor to the door. There is also a quick connect plug that comes off of the motor. (See pic 1. in step 5)

First loosen the (4) green bolts one or two turns should be sufficient.

After that remove the quick connect plug from the window motor

Then remove the last bolt that holds the motor to the door. (The motor is attached to a bracket that is attached to one of the tracks.

Once all of the bolts have been loosened and the one removed you can slide both of the tracks upward and forward to detach them from the door.

They can now be removed through the crevice in the door
I found that diagonal, along with one track, and one end at a time is the easiest technique.

Step 7

Window regulator removed

Once the regulator is removed you can now examine it for the problem. The easiest way to do this to lay it down in the X pattern that it was installed on the window. If there is any slack in the cable that is a problem, there must be a reason for it.

Start by examining the cable if it is frayed, coming apart or snapped I would recommend buying a whole new regulator with a new pulley for the motor. (I would recommend saving some stress and buying the whole thing pre-assembled with the motor)

If the cables came loose and there is no damage to them, check the plastic where the cable ends connect to the window clamps on the slide.

If you find a chip missing where the cable is held in place it can be repaired, or replaced if you can find the piece (This is where the cotter pin and the epoxy come in handy)

If there is damage to where it meets the rail you might be able to hold it on with a zip tie but I would not recommend it, I would replace it or at least get the part so if or when it broke again you could fix it correctly

If you do not see any problems with the rails and the slides check the pulleys on the tops and bottoms of the rails where the cable should be fed through.

There should be 2 semicircular cutouts on each of these this is how you are able to feed the cable through them you must line the cutouts up with the outside and place the cable in them possibly having to turn them slightly to get the cable to go in fully

If there are no problems there look at the motor assembly and the pulley. If the wire is frayed there it most likely cut up the pulley and stripped it so that the cable falls off.

At this point you should pay careful attention to how the cables are seated in the pulley if you put them in backwards the cables will not be tight enough and the window will work backwards, and eventually fall again.

Now you will have to use the torx bits to separate the motor from the bracket. There are (3) torx screws that need to be removed. When you do this the pulley will slide off of the motor, when you pull it straight back.

To test the motor the easiest thing to do is to plug it back in to the quick connect and use either the driver master control panel or plug in the control panel to test it, but make sure the key is in the on position and you are getting power to the motor.

Step 8 - Repair or replace (replace option skip to step 9)

Once you have diagnosed the problem with the regulator or motor and you have decided to fix or replace it remember that it is under a lot of pressure from the time that you put it back together on.

MASTER PULLEY- If there no problems with the cables and something happened to the master pulley (the one that attached to the motor). There might be a way to repair it by making the grooves and ridges smoother, more defined, and symmetrical. I would not recommend this with any major damage to it.

You will need a small V or U shaped chisel, propane torch or heat gun, fine grit sand paper, and a nail that fits into the grooves perfectly. A lathe or a drill with a screw, washer, and nut, help but are not a necessity.

The heat is to soften the plastic but don't burn it the chisel is to remove any larger chunks of plastic and the sandpaper is used to sand it out and make it smooth the nail is to make a contour sander.

The drill with a screw, washer, and nut create a makeshift slow speed lathe and I recommend slow speed if you have a lathe.
This is not 100% effective but it will work if you take your time and are careful as long as it isn't in that bad of shape.

SLIDE REPAIR (chipped around cable) – if there is a small chip in the slide where the cable is held in you can repair it using a cotter pin and epoxy (make sure that the cotter pin has an eye that the cable end cannot slide through).

First degrease the slide and make sure that there is nothing that is going to prevent the epoxy from adhering to the plastic.
Then use some fine grit sand paper to help with adhesion

Make sure that all of the dust and degreaser is removed and the piece is dry and clear of contaminants

Separate the fins of the cotter pin just enough to insert the cable between them and slide the cable into the eye

Insert the fins of the cotter pin through the hole that the cable goes into and on the other side separate the fins make sure you make it tight and close to the plastic, and that it won't interfere with the mechanisms. Also make sure that the cable is able to be seated where it is meant to be (there is barely enough slack as it is you wont be able to re-assemble it).
After you have made sure that everything will work mix the epoxy and put it around where the cable and cotter pin are and try to fill in the chip missing.

Wait a while before you reassemble the regulator (I used 60 second epoxy and waited 3 hours so it was closer to its maximum strength then if I used it 1 hour later max was 24 hours which is ideal)

I did this 3 months ago and it is still strong

Re-assembly

To re assemble the regulator make sure that all of the cables are securely seated in the slides then make sure that the cables run through all of the (4) pulleys on the rails then that the cable end connectors (Grey with a spring inside) are fitted into the cutouts that they fit into tightly.
Then make sure that you feed the cables correctly through the housing on the mount for the window motor, place a cable into its corresponding opening and wind it up on the pulley.

When you get close to the end start the other side, if you do it right it should be tight, to the point where you question if it is too tight.
I used a screwdriver to pry the pulley into place using the hole on the mount as a geode to line the hole up to. After you do that, be sure that the cable is properly seated on the pulley and then fit the motor onto it, and re-align the screws and fasten it tightly.

Fix

Step 9 - Re-assembly

Basically the reverse of the removal

Install the regulator tighten in all (4) bolts and fasten the motor to the door

Re connect the motor quick connect

Re install the window (be careful again). Remember that you must lower the window completely to the bottom of the door to get it back in the right track

Before you clamp the window in you must replace the weather stripping exactly the way that it was when you started with the window in the right crease and the weather stripping all the way in place (if it is off you will resist the window going up and put stress on the parts that you just repaired or replaced and it has the ability to break itself)

When you are getting ready to clamp the window you should first raise it by hand to double check the weather stripping and then once you are sure that it is in place lower the window onto the clamps (use the dirt marks likely on the glass to give you a general area.

Try to raise the window to be sure that it is in place and if possible tighten them while it is all the way up and then test it before continuing

Once the window is tightened into place you can put the water shield back on match up the adhesive exactly any problems with it I would use silicone sealant. Make sure that you pull the door handle through.

If the water shield was stretched use a heat gun to try to shrink it but don't get the plastic too hot or you will burn a hole in it keep the heat gun at least 6 inched away and keep it moving that will help

If you removed the plastic bracket on the door replace it

Pop the door handle back into the door panel

Feed the wire for the control panel through the cavity and hang the lip over the window

Press the clips back into the door to fasten the panel

Replace the screw that you removed from the cavity in the control panel and the screws that secured the door panel to the door

Replace the access panel

Remove the tape and protective barrier

And you have repaired your window regulator / motor

Related Window Articles

Related F150 Forum Discussions on Power Window / Regulator Problems

Keywords: ford f150 2004 f-150 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 f150 power window regulator regulater problem fix cable repair replace broken down up fall fallen

Related Articles

User Comments

Ryan : additional info
this article helped me out alot. i have never had to do repairs like this before and it was a great resource. more advice to whomever uses this article next, check for the warranty on the replacement regulator/motor. i got a warranty on mine that i purchased at my local dealership. i asked the service clerck if this part goes out often and he told me the only way he can put it is" we have had to keep this in stock more often here recently."

trish : beware removing the trim
This was a helpful article, but bmstichter was rather vague about the removal of the large section of door trim. He said to pop them out with a trim removal tool, without telling you where the tabs are. I followed these instructions and it resulted in two broken plastic tabs. I am a 125 pound woman so I did not yank it off too hard. Later I read the Haynes manual, which tells you to remove the speaker first, and then the entire trim section will lift up and away without damage.

JESSE MC
I replaced mine without removing window.Just push it up all the way,have someone hold it or 100mph tape.

DC : WINDOW REGULATOR REPLACEMENT
After reading this information, I found out how easy it was to save close to $200 dollars by doing the job myself. One thing that I did learn was when removing the door panel, you remove the screws as shown, pull off the speaker cover and remove the screws from the speaker. Once that is done, you can lift up on the door panel and the door panel comes off. After you have remove the panel, you remove the door handle from the backside of the panel. You can then set the panel aside and get to work on the seal and the rest of the project. You also do not have to remove the window. You can push the window up and then hold it up using duck tape on the outside of the window if you have window tint. Loosen the mounts that hold the window and the rest is history. This is a great site and thanks for all the help.

Larry
I just replaced the passenger side window regulator on my '04 Super Crew yesterday. This article was helpful but there are a few minor glitches.

1. Before trying to remove the door panel, take the speaker out and remove the two bottom plastic thread inserts with a trim removal tool. This will allow the door panel to slide up and come off.

2. You do not have to remove the glass. Once it is out of the clamps, slide it up to the "closed" position. I used a block of wood through the rectangular hole in the door where the "door lever" goes to hold it up.

After the plastic was removed, the regulator was out and the new one installed in less than 30 minutes.

Les Hunter : Window Regulator Replacement
This article was very helpful. I did not take the window out, I used duck tape to hold it up. Caution, I don't recommend that you put the duck tape on a tinted window. Did not have to remove the molding from the window as well. The complete install took me just under 2 hours. This article saved me approx. $225.00. Thanks for the information and good luck to next person that gets to install a window regulator.

mm
This is easier than it looks in this article. The hardest part is removing the plastic door panel and water shield.

After you have that done
1) Move the window all the way up.

2) use Duct tape to secure the top of the window to the top of the door frame so it won't slide down after the regulator is removed.

3) Once the window is all the way up you can access the screws holding the window by means of two (one for each screw) oval slots. Use a 10mm nut driver or socket to loosen them. don't need remove.

4) Once loose, push the brackets down with your hands. The window should stay up all the way.

5) Remove & replace the regulator as stated.

6) Reconnect the window controls temporarily.

7) Using the control (with key on) raise the window brakets all the way. The window should be back in the brackets and all the way up. Tighten the screws for the window bracket via the two oval holes.

Test the windows up and down and you're ready to put the water shield, and panel back

SixGun : F150 Super Crew Window fix
The article is wrong for late models...Don't pry the door panel off!!!! Lift it up. There are no traditional clip, you lift the panel straight up and it will come right off. I broke three clips following the directions in this section. You also do not need to take out the glass, just slide it all the way up and put a clamp on it.

diug white
Where do I buy regulator, other than thruogh Ford ?

Duane Keys : Thanks
As others noted, you don't have to take the glass out. A big thanks to the author though, I was able to complete this on my own in less than an hour.

My local dealer sold me the driver's side front regulator for $127. Other dealerships wanted over $200, so shop around. It is a dealer only item at this point, none of the aftermarket shops will have it yet.

tom : window gears stripped
drill three holes where the three tabs broke off .Put three screws in the holes with the heads ground to match broken tabs.screw three screwes in till the top of screw is the same height as the broken tabs.Put back togather.

Bondo : F 550
I have a 05 F550 and it took me 15 minutes! Only had to remove the three screws holding the window motor, and these were accessible through holes in door. Remove the screws, motor falls out, unplug and plug in new motor, reach up and hold it in place, replace the three screws and done! Took longer to find the screws (2) to hold the door panel on. One under the switch panel, other behind the red plastic panel, lift door trim up and off.

Douglas : Great information!
Thanks for the information. I was able to take off the door panel and plastic. I was able to examine the window/motor. Question: the motor is working...however, the window does not roll up or down with motor running.

All started when I attempted to roll down window; something made a bang in door and now window unalbe to roll up but motor operates. Does anyone have any suggestions what could be the problem? Could it be that the pulley system in motor is not catching?

dru perkins : window source
i bought my regulator from bob utter ford in tx. cost me 120.00, my dealer here in naples florida wanted 250.00!!! what a rip off!! look these guys up online if you want good advice and great prices... bob utter ford. i replaced it in 20 minutes

Douglas

If the regulator falls apart but motor still works, can you just by the regulator? I heard you had to purchase the whole kit. My motor is working but looks like it is stripped!

csf32160 : Window Regulator Part # for 2004 F-150
Great article - does anyone know the part# for the window regulator? I have done a search on the internet and am returned with parts that look nothing like the regulator I have or what is pictured on this "how to" page. Thanks!

Charilyn
Does anyone know why the windows break so easily & why there isn't a recall on them? We've had to replace the regulators on 3 of the windows this year because the cable snapped while we were driving, causing the window to just fall into the door (scary!) This is ridiculous.

Shadetree mechanic : Speaker screw thead plugs
These instructions made replacement very easy. The instructions, pictures and comments are great, I would like to add a tip to help others also. The hardest portion of the removal was getting the bottom speaker screw thead plugs removed so the door pannel coulf be lifted up. After trying a number of tools I decided to press them out. I did this by placing a deep socked larger than the outside diamer of the thead screw plug over the plug then using a C clamp to push the plug into the deep sochet. I hope this helps others.

Jacob
Thank you so much for this article. It saved me a ton of money. I purchased the part and did it myself thanks to you. I really appreciate the help.

neighbor
This article is great! It took me less than an hour to replace the regulator. My local dealer wanted $230 for the assembly, but I called Bob Utter Ford in Texas as it was suggested by previous poster and got it from them for $120 shipped. I've noticed that the assembly was lacking any lube on it and I'm wandering could that be the reason for premature failure? Anyway I lubed mine before assembling everything together.

tom : READ THE COMMENTS FIRST!
Good article but I wish I had read the comments before I started. Would have saved me two broken tabs. But still, got the regulator w/o motor for $35 from NAPA so it saved me $200+. Thanks

Mike
I had this problem as well. It was ridiculous, but easily fixed. This tutorial actually helped me, but there is absolutely no reason to take out the glass. I went ahead and wrote another tutorial on my blog, with a bunch more pictures. Hope it helps somebody!

Nate
Great how-to! One thing to add, I have a '04 F-150 (FX4) and it is necessary to remove the 4 bolts around the speaker as well as the speakcer before removing the door panel. Thanks for the article and comments!!!

Cody
My front passenger window went out 6 months ago. I paid $350 to have it fixed. Now both my back windows have gone out. Rather than pay $700 to have it fixed I am planning on doing it myself. These instructions see like they will be a major help and it should not be too complicated. I have a 2004 supercrew lairiat. Does anyone know what part numbers I need to order for the rear passenger and the rear driver windows? Where is the best place to order them?

Hcarver6 : Buttons work in reverse
I replaced the window regulator w/motor on the drivers side of my 2005 F-150 supercab (50" door) w/o a problem except when I pushed the "up" button, the window went down and when I pressed the "down" button the window went up. What's UP? All the parts can go in only one way. The electric connections are quick connect and can only go in one way. The three other window buttons still work correctly. The whole replacement went just as directed at this site. I didn't mess with anything extra. I'm totally puzzled. The bad thing about it is that when you press the down button, the window will continue in the up direction, and you don't want the window closing automatically with a single touch for safety reasons

peteb
DO NOT forget to remove the screws to the speakers before removing the panel... The weather cover can be detatched on both sides and the top and allowed to fold over and down out of the way and still be attached at the bottom... You will need metric... probably obvious, but I had to search for my 6,8,10mm ones... Takes about an 1-11/2 hours...

Andy
good to know I'm not the only one with the bad windows. i will be replacing my second one within the last 4 months. Own a 66 Corvette for 38 years and have never had a power window problem. Not saying much for FORD

Patman-TX Button work in reverse
Ford made a running change so if you install the new assembly and the buttons work in reverse (up is down and down is up) all you need to do is cut the two wires that go from the motor to the switch and flip them. This changes the polarity of the motor and everything will be right in the world again. Some kits will have the instructions in the box, others may not. It's only 2 wires sow flipping them isn't rocket science. I did just this for a friend at work. He had even sent his first parts order back because he didn't believe me. The replacement part came with the instructions so it confirmed what I told him to start with LOL!

HellSPAWN45 : ford trk window fix
Hi, yes on the 2004 f-150 supercab xlt the drivers door panel lifts up, and on some have extra bolt hidden inside bottom under where the control are, the information in this article was extremely helpful as none of the repair books have detail as this. thanks for the time you put in on this. H.S. Ohio

Mike
Great how to article! Don't know if it was posted before, but I was able to get the whole assembly out without removing the window. I just raised the window all the way up, and held it in place with a screw driver. Allowed me to pull the pulley assemblies out of the large hole at the bottom of the door panel. Might save you all a scratch in the tint. Mike

John Baker
I was trying to raise this problem to an amateur mechanic and was refusing to teach me to do the trick. I was hoping that after buying the necessary Ford F150 parts I could find an instructional video for me to repair it myself. Good thing about this article, it helped me out a lot, I can actually see how it's done and there's a detailed step by step process.

red neck fives : try this before replacing the motor
read the article, it was helpful, anyway my truck is a worktruck with a rusty hood and a semi automatic trans(has some issues that I work around) going on 200,000mi runs great when a sensor does not break, so I just took off the door panel tried changing the switchs right for left) still wouldn't work so then took a plumbers wrench and did the Russian on the motor, some sharp cracks to get it's attention. now it's working fine and it's off to the interior of BC. just two screws in the door panel seem to be fine so if it acts up I know what to do. I like Ford products but the motor was only a couple of years old, stuff breaking like that soon really bugs me All the best Ian

Jimmy Smith : 2005 Ford F-150 Window Problem
I had my window regulator go out in my F-150 last month on the passengers side now the drivers side went out today, Ford needs to step up to the plate and do a recall apparently this is a huge problem all over the Country. I'm about to purchase a new truck and with this happening I may just change to a different brand all together.

Joe Perez : 2005 f-150 super crew
Thanks so much for the great how to on this tough window motor! When I took the door panel off all I saw was a rats nest of cable around the grenaded motor pully. Immediately I felt in over my head but when I found and studied this how to I was pretty confident. Went to autozone got the part and had it done in about an hour and a half. It was the drivers side front . Note to all on a replacement regulator, Dealership price=189.99
Autozone Price= 122.99+ limited lifetime warr Ebay junk=89.99 and no warranty Thanks again!!

Rich : Plastic Junk
One of the cheap plastic rail slides broke in my passenger window regulator. The dealer wanted $170 for an entire new regulator assembly, luckily I found it on Amazon for $80. Sad that a broken piece of plastic requires the entire assembly be replaced. You can bet your behind I'm saving those other slides!

Tony Miller : NOT APPLICABLE TO 2004 F150
DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THIS ARTICLE. MANY STEPS ARE LEFT OUT. IF YOU FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS YOU WILL BREAK PARTS. PERIOD.

All site content Copyright © 2010-2024 BlueOvalTech.com
We are in no way affiliated with Ford Motor Company