Thread: This is my next mod!!!! Droollll

For the price I think I'd rather go with these guys:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/default.asp

Interesting page where they talk about their lifts being made in China:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Articles.asp?ID=148

Apparently you can grab an actual US lift for $3k
http://www.superlifts.com/fourpostlifts/sr7h.html

ughh, right now theres a few lifts for sale on craigslist for around 8-900bucs. Wheres my tax return money.lol

Where are Rotary Lifts made? From MSRP I'd assume the USA, and they are really nice. I think Metro (is that right, I'll verify later) lifts are made in china but i've heard good things about them.

Originally Posted by antonch

Also, I would not feel safe being underneath a car that is secured by only two posts. Any common sense tells me that if something ever goes wrong(things always go wrong), you would be screwed if you were underneath.

You've never been in an actual mechanic's garage have you? You realize that two post lifts are what people use for working on cars, right?

Originally Posted by Z3speed4me

yea id rather get a REAL lift.... for some reason i really dont have full trust in that thing

You honestly believe they haven't designed this thing properly? It's built by a company that makes "full size" lifts as well. I'm sure they've done their math and sizes the bolts/anchors appropriately.

Originally Posted by antonch

It looks like a pain in the ass to setup, much better just to leave it permanently secured. So I am not sure why it's marketed as portable unit.

Because it IS portable. It's a great alternative for folks like me who live in urban places in small homes who would like a two post lift, but may have a small garage (or no garage at all) where we can't permanently install one. In this case, I could even install a 2nd set of anchors out in my driveway and use the lift outside when I want rather than being cramped inside the garage on nice days.

Originally Posted by SiGmA

You're right. I didn't notice the lack of cross bar or that the bots are only 5/8..

The cross bars on lifts are not load bearing...they are there to hold the crossover cables that make sure the two lift arms stay in sync. They can be run above or below.

Lot's of armchair engineers predicting doom and failure on this thread as if they have any idea what they are talking about.

I will add my self to the list of the ones feeling not safe.....

working under a car hold by 2 unconnected posts. I will feel better (not necessarily safer) if they had some sort of attachment on the bottom.

Have anyone thought about water/fluids and other debris getting in the holes and compromising the "anchor" system.

Originally Posted by jfdmas

i dont have a problem with the design. Im sure the anchors go real deep, however my biggest thing is id want the ability to store 2 vehicles in one spot and this doesnt go high enough. I was hopingit would go maybe 1-2 ft higher but nope. sore neck and back when working under that thing.

If you're looking to store a car under it, you don't need a portable lift anyway. This is a lift designed for people who don't have the room to install a lift permanently or have ceiling heights too short of a regular two-post. You'd be better off spending less money on a permanent install lift. Actually, if you plan to use the lift for storage, a 4 post would be a MUCH better option.

Originally Posted by RJ's325ITS

working under a car hold by 2 unconnected posts. I will feel better (not necessarily safer) if they had some sort of attachment on the bottom.

Seriously? Have you EVER been inside a working garage? Two post lifts are what almost every mechanic uses every day.

Safety factor information:

http://www.maxjaxusa.com/maxjax-lift...olt-specs.html

Methinks the bolts are big enough.

Well it would be for storage when needed, like in the cold winter months. But i would also need to be able to work on it. So, ill be looking for a 2 post for sure. preferably cable under do to my ceilings.

Originally Posted by jfdmas

Well it would be for storage when needed, like in the cold winter months. But i would also need to be able to work on it. So, ill be looking for a 2 post for sure. preferably cable under do to my ceilings.

A rolling 4-post might still work for you. You can usually add a center bar/jack system that allows you to lift the chassis to get the wheels up off the platform, giving you nearly as much freedom to work on the car as a 2-post.

If you'll be using the car park underneath while the upper car is stored, having room to get in/out of your door would be a huge plus of the 4-post. A 4-post also usually allows you to mount drip pans to protect the car underneath, which makes it an even better storage option.

I work under my 2 post lift about every night. It's anchored properly...and well, I'm still alive. Uses 4- 3/4" Powers Impact driven fasteners per column.

http://www.powers.com/product_7204SD.html

Lift:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/HR.../tphr-8000.htm

Don

Don - I'm working on my garage layout right now and I've considered doing something similar to you. Any chance you have the basic dimensions of your garage handy and a good idea as to where the lift is mounted relative to a couple walls? I need to make sure I'd have enough room to get a car on/off a lift if I mounted it like that.

Most new shops install two-post lifts since they allow cars to be moved around more easily.

Given US liability laws, they wouldn't be in use if they weren't perfectly safe.

Neil

Lifts in garages are anchored to the floor. PERMININATLY!. That thing isn't... Mine is... Armchair engineer? Diplomas on the wall say I really am one...lol

You had better have some good friction surfaces for those things to sit on. A 3300# car 6 ft off the floor is going to exert a nice moment on the floor surface. (armchair not withstanding)

Originally Posted by B.Watts

Don - I'm working on my garage layout right now and I've considered doing something similar to you. Any chance you have the basic dimensions of your garage handy and a good idea as to where the lift is mounted relative to a couple walls? I need to make sure I'd have enough room to get a car on/off a lift if I mounted it like that.

Certainly. I'll be home around 5pm "ish" and I'll measure it up. I know the garage is a tad oversized 3 car @ 33' x 30'. Ceilings are 10'. Mounting it this way also allows clearance of the garage door lifts.

99% of the time I back into the lift...which takes less room. I have pulled in also which is more of a PITA but required on some jobs. I just overhauled a 99 FRC Corvette in preparation for HPDE work and had to pull it in due to dropping the entire drive train.

Don

Originally Posted by RRSperry

Lifts in garages are anchored to the floor. PERMININATLY!. That thing isn't... Mine is... Armchair engineer? Diplomas on the wall say I really am one...lol

You had better have some good friction surfaces for those things to sit on. A 3300# car 6 ft off the floor is going to exert a nice moment on the floor surface. (armchair not withstanding)

Yeah, I'll bet that moment is about 138549 in-lb.

Howdy Rich...I'm "one" too!!

Don

Originally Posted by RRSperry

Lifts in garages are anchored to the floor. PERMININATLY!. That thing isn't... Mine is... Armchair engineer? Diplomas on the wall say I really am one...lol

You had better have some good friction surfaces for those things to sit on. A 3300# car 6 ft off the floor is going to exert a nice moment on the floor surface. (armchair not withstanding)

Permanent lifts are held there by studs mounted in the concrete with a nut/washer screwed on top to hold the lift. It's not very different from an anchor mounted in the concrete with a bolt threaded in as the MaxJax uses. What do you need friction surfaces for? This thing is BOLTED TO THE FLOOR when in use. It sounds like you are assuming that this lift is free-standing.

The math has been done...does a 443% safety factor satisfy your diploma on the wall? http://www.maxjaxusa.com/maxjax-lift...olt-specs.html

This is still ignoring the fact that you'd be bending over and looking up by using that jack. For any project >10 mins, I would assume you're neck, back, and knees would not love being in the cave man position for very long.

Originally Posted by B.Watts

Permanent lifts are held there by studs mounted in the concrete with a nut/washer screwed on top to hold the lift. It's not very different from an anchor mounted in the concrete with a bolt threaded in as the MaxJax uses. What do you need friction surfaces for? This thing is BOLTED TO THE FLOOR when in use. It sounds like you are assuming that this lift is free-standing.

The math has been done...does a 443% safety factor satisfy your diploma on the wall? http://www.maxjaxusa.com/maxjax-lift...olt-specs.html

Good ole Mr. Watts popping those big-headed egos left and right!

Originally Posted by alpmaster

This is still ignoring the fact that you'd be bending over and looking up by using that jack. For any project >10 mins, I would assume you're neck, back, and knees would not love being in the cave man position for very long.

You're ignoring the fact that it's better than laying on your back under a car on jackstands, which is what people who have 8-9 foot ceilings would otherwise be doing without a low-rise lift (it's a LIFT, not a JACK). What makes this so hard to understand? This is a lift designed for people who are space limited. It's a two-post lift for people that would normally only have the option of installing a scissors lift which severely limits the amount of access you have under the car. If you've got the extra room and 10' or taller ceilings (even with 10' ceilings, most people won't be able to stand up fully under the car), then, by all means, install a permanent mount two-post lift. This isn't the lift for you. If you're garage is a daylight basement under a 2000 SF house on a tiny urban lot, this lift beats the hell out of jackstands.

That said, since we're no longer cave men, we've managed to invent these neat little devices called rolling stools:

I think that people are assuming that you can just throw these things anywhere you want. You need to figure out where you want them then install your anchors PERMINANTLY into the ground. then when you want a lift roll it out and bolt it into your anchors. Its hradly different from a perminant 2 post lift, only these are easier to tear down and put away when not needed.

Originally Posted by B.Watts

You're ignoring the fact that it's better than laying on your back under a car on jackstands, which is what people who have 8-9 foot ceilings would otherwise be doing without a low-rise lift (it's a LIFT, not a JACK). What makes this so hard to understand? This is a lift designed for people who are space limited. It's a two-post lift for people that would normally only have the option of installing a scissors lift which severely limits the amount of access you have under the car. If you've got the extra room and 10' or taller ceilings (even with 10' ceilings, most people won't be able to stand up fully under the car), then, by all means, install a permanent mount two-post lift. This isn't the lift for you. If you're garage is a daylight basement under a 2000 SF house on a tiny urban lot, this lift beats the hell out of jackstands.

That said, since we're no longer cave men, we've managed to invent these neat little devices called rolling stools:

Keep 'em coming! I love it!






OK in support of THE MAN B. Watts.......how many of you actually watched this video? Raise of hands please!


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5e5c8euXEw"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5e5c8euXEw[/ame]

It was painfully boring and unimpressive.

I have, still not sold on the idea... I wish a user will come forward, and give us a 3rd point of view

Originally Posted by B.Watts

Seriously? Have you EVER been inside a working garage? Two post lifts are what almost every mechanic uses every day.

I been in many but none with a portable lifts, safety info looks very good not that I can certified it is, but I know anybody will agree here that having a fixed 2P lift will be less likely for the anchors to fail due to many things (user error).

Is not hard to see an standard scenario where you miss thread a bolt, thus compromising the integrity of the anchor system... also like a said debris could cause the threads to wear out and fail..... My .02

Nothing to worry about when you have a fix 2P set-up...

Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5

It was painfully boring and unimpressive.

True that. Funny how slow it is. They had to edit the time it took and you still fall asleep.

Originally Posted by RJ's325ITS

I have, still not sold on the idea... I wish a user will come forward, and give us a 3rd point of view

Maybe there is a forum some place where users discuss it.

Originally Posted by RJ's325ITS

I have, still not sold on the idea... I wish a user will come forward, and give us a 3rd point of view

Not available until March 2009. I have talked to people who have seen the lift first hand at trade shows though. Seems to be well built. It's made by Dannmar, who is an industry leader. They know a little bit about designing lifts:

http://www.dannmar.com/index.html

Originally Posted by RJ's325ITS

Is not hard to see an standard scenario where you miss thread a bolt, thus compromising the integrity of the anchor system... also like a said debris could cause the threads to wear out and fail..... My .02

Nothing to worry about when you have a fix 2P set-up...

So thread a bolt down into the hole when you aren't using the anchors to protect them. Not hard. Also, the directions require that you drill the hole deeper than the anchors...dirt will fall through. Something tells me that all of this has been considered in the design.

If you cross thread a bolt into the anchor and continue tightening it down, that's your own stupid fault. Someone without enough experience to realize they are cross threading a bolt shouldn't be playing with grown up toys anyway. I wouldn't trust them to place the lift feet in the correct position on a car when using a permanent lift either.

Originally Posted by B.Watts

So thread a bolt down into the hole when you aren't using the anchors to protect them. Not hard.

Great point. That would keep you from losing/missplacing them as well.