It might seem incredible, but today Apple only sells a single MacBook Pro that still uses a hard drive. As of Apple's update in October, all of the 13-inch and 15-inch MacBook Pros(Opens in a new window) -- aside from the single non-Retina display model -- have all moved over to solid-state storage. And that lone 13-inch MBP, with its 500GB 5400 RPM hard drive is clearly not long for this world. At $1200 the last-man-standing non-Retina Pro is only $100 cheaper than the next model up and it lacks both the Flash storage and high-resolution display that make the new MBP so good.
If you're here you're probably not in the market for a new MacBook Pro. You likely have an aging laptop that you're trying to breath some life into. Well, good news, there is no better upgrade you can make to a laptop today than upgrading the hard drive. This article will explain how to upgrade your MacBook Pro's hard drive, allowing you to drop in a bigger HDD, a speedy HHD, or super-fast SSD(Opens in a new window).
Even if you wouldn't think twice about cracking open a desktop to drop in a new video card, you might pass on doing anything with a laptop -- their cramped interiors and specialized hardware are instant turn-offs. And if the laptop in question is Apple's MacBook Pro, you might dismiss the idea immediately. After all, Apple doesn't have an upgrade-friendly reputation.
Don't let that stand in your way. You can give your MacBook Pro faster storage in just a few steps. Doing so will require some minor surgery and void your warranty, but you'll almost certainly find the process easy enough to be worth the (minor) risk.
Since this story first ran in 2007(!), Apple has released multiple new versions of the MacBook Pro, each of which differs just slightly from the others. We'll run through each of them, but the important thing to know is that the process is similar from one generation to the next. Of course, the big change took place when the Retina display design. This brought a thinner chassis and was when Apple stopped using hard drives in its laptops. After this point we can no longer help you out, as the storage is not based in a 2.5-inch form-factor and in most cases is not upgradable. The break point for this was:
- 15-inch MacBook Pro with Retina: First released June 2012, model MacBookPro10,1
- 13-inch MacBook Pro with Retina: First released October 2012, model MacBookPro10,2
Upgrading the MacBook Pro's hard drive
Before you get started, you'll want to back up your data. If you have an external hard drive and a recent version of OS X, Apple's Time Machine software is the easiest way to go -- you probably already have it working for you. Otherwise, check out SuperDuper(Opens in a new window) to make a backup of your entire disk.
Once you've secured any data you're going to want to keep, you're ready to begin the upgrade process. Exactly what you'll have to do differs depending on when you bought your system. When you've discerned that, click on the links below to go to the page for your particular model. If you're not sure when you got your MacBook Pro, turn it over and use the descriptions below to help you figure it out.
First generation (January 2006 - October 2008): The battery cover opens with two tabs. The bad news is, you've got the most involved work ahead of you. The good news is, it's still not very hard. Second generation (October 2008 - June 2009): The second generation MacBook Pro is the first to have unibody construction. It's also the easiest to upgrade -- this version only has one latch to pull open the case. Third generation (2010 and on, pre-Retina MBPs): In terms of difficulty, this MacBook Pro splits the difference between the other two models: You can identify it by the single panel held on by ten screws. Once you're inside, however, it's a snap to swap out the hard drives.Alternatively, you can continue with this article for a guide to upgrading the first, second, and then third generation MacBook Pros. If you want larger pictures try the links above, if you want to run through of each model stick with this article...
You'll need a pair of tools to do all this. First, you'll need a small jewelry-sized Phillips-head screwdriver. The kind that will fit the numerous screws you see all over the sides and back of your MacBook Pro. Second, you'll need a tiny Torx screwdriver (T-6 size). You may not have one of these lying around, but it will only cost you a couple bucks from your local hardware store or Home Depot. A full kit should run you under $10. Note: this is a universal tool, not something specialized or only used by Apple.
Torx screwdrivers are the ones with the star-shaped heads, like this:
After you have your data backed up and the system is powered down (this is important!), you're ready to pull the drive. Start by removing the battery. Just push the two tabs on the battery and it pops right out. This is an immediate tip as to what model of MacBook Pro you have -- newer models do not have a removable battery.
Open up the RAM compartment. Underneath the battery are three small Phillips screws holding the RAM cover on. Just unscrew them and lift the cover off.
Strictly speaking, you don't need to remove the RAM modules to replace the hard drive. We're going to do it just to be on the safe side.
Here's the process: Simply pull on the little metal brackets on the sides and the RAM modules pop up to around a 30-degree angle, so you can slide them out. If you ever need to upgrade the RAM in your MacBook Pro, this is all you have to do. Just reverse the steps from this point and you're done. We're going deeper to get at that hard drive, though.
To get inside the case, we'll have to remove a whole bunch of screws. Starting by the RAM modules, you'll see a pair of those Torx screws we mentioned before. A T-6 screwdriver is about the right size to remove them. Also remove the four Phillips screws on the bottom near the back of the MacBook Pro, near the hinge. In the picture below, we've circled the Torx screws in red and the Phillips screws in blue.
Inside the battery compartment, along the front edge, are a pair of Phillips screws you'll need to remove. These are a little tricky to get at.
Along the left and right side of the MacBook Pro, you'll find eight Phillips screws to remove, four on each side. They're easy to see and easy to remove. Just don't lose those tiny screws.
The last pair of screws before we go inside are on the back, next to the hinge. Remove these two Philips screws and you'll be ready to open up your notebook.
Now that your screwdriver hand is getting tired, it's time to crack open the notebook and look inside. Turn it right-side-up and lift the screen. Put your hands on either side of the keyboard, back by the hinge, and gently pry the top of the notebook open. This may require a little gentle pressure, but don't just yank on it, and don't pull it up too far; there's a ribbon cable attaching the keyboard and trackpad to the rest of the system.
Note: The front edge can be a little tricky. Rock the top panel back and forth a little until it works its way loose.
Once you have that top panel free, lifting it up from the front reveals the following sight:
That's the hard drive on the lower left, and optical drive on the lower right. Let's pay special attention to that one ribbon cable running from the trackpad/keyboard to the center of the computer.
We're going to gently pull that off: Don't worry, it's easy to replace. You just need to look closely at the little plastic block it came off of and the underside of the ribbon cable. Notice they're notched to fit together a certain way. Make sure that, when you reassemble your notebook, you fit the ribbon cable back on its little keyed block. It's not particularly tricky; it's just something to be mindful of.
We're almost ready to remove the hard drive. The last thing in the way is a small module snuggled in next to it, looking like it's wrapped up in scotch tape. This is the Bluetooth module, and all we need to do is to lift it up out of the way so that we can get at the hard drive screws. Don't disconnect any wires!
We're finally able to get at the hard drive. Start by removing the two Philips screws on its right side.
There's a big flat ribbon cable on top of the hard drive. It's just stuck to the drive with some gooey adhesive, so gently pry it up until it pulls free. Don't bend the ribbon cable sharply—put your finger underneath and lift up.
There's another ribbon cable joining the SATA connectors to the notebook motherboard. You don't need to remove that: Just leave it attached.
Now gently pull the hard drive up out of the notebook; there should be nothing left holding it down. Remove the SATA power and data connections from the back of the drive.
Almost done now... there are four little plastic nubs on the sides of the hard drive that hold the drive firmly in place when it's down in the notebook case. Time to get your money's worth from that T-6 Torx screwdriver again. Unscrew the little nubs -- two on each side -- and put them aside.
To install your hard drive, just run through all those steps in reverse. First screw on the little plastic nubs on the sides of your new hard drive, plug in the SATA power and data connector, put it in the case, screw in the two screws on the side of the drive… you get the idea.
Pay special attention to two things when reassembling your MacBook Pro. First, make sure all your cables are tucked in properly—that Bluetooth module should fit snugly next to the drive, and you want to be sure no other wires or ribbon cables are pulled loose, crimped in a way they weren't before, or covering up a screw hole. Second, make sure you put the ribbon cable running from the bottom of the keyboard/trackpad back on its little nubbin correctly. It's really not tricky; just make sure you feel it sort of "snap" into place. If it's loose, the keyboard and track pad may not function at all.Second Generation MacBook Pro
Just as with the first generation MacBook Pro, you'll need two different screwdrivers to perform your upgrade. First, you'll need a small jewelry-sized Phillips-head screwdriver for loosening the few screws used in this model. Second, you'll need a tiny Torx screwdriver (T-6 size).
The battery and hard drive areas on this model of MacBook Pro are hidden behind a door that can be opened merely by lifting the one latch shown here.
Removing the battery will make it a little easier to get at the hard drive. Lift it off by pulling on the plastic tab.
The bracket holding the hard drive in place on this model is secured with just one screw. Use your Phillips-head screwdriver to loosen it, then pull it out of the case.
Carefully lift out the hard drive by pulling on the plastic tab.
The MacBook Pro's SATA cable connects to the drive by way of a black adapter. Push it off with your thumbs and set it aside.
Four posts on the drive (two on each side) secure the drive within the brackets. Unscrew them using your Torx screwdriver and hang onto them; you'll need to put them on the drive you're using to replace this one.
Reverse this process to install your new drive. Attach the posts to it, connect the SATA adapter, return the drive to the case, replace the bracket and screw it with a screw, then snap back on the battery cover and the outer case cover.
Third generation MacBook Pro
As with both the first and second generation models, you'll need two different screwdrivers to perform your upgrade. First, you'll need a small jewelry-sized Phillips-head screwdriver for loosening the various screws used in this model of MacBook Pro. Second, you'll need a tiny Torx screwdriver (T-6 size).
To open the underside of the MacBook Pro, you'll need to remove the ten screws around the periphery that hold it in place. Use your Phillips-head screwdriver for this, and put the screws in a safe place.
Lift off the panel, and you'll see all the computer's components impeccably aligned: the motherboard on the top right (with the memory just below it), the battery on the bottom right, and the hard drive on the bottom left.
A black bracket holds the hard drive in place. Unscrew it with your Phillips-head screwdriver—the are two screws—to release the bracket, then remove it.
Lift out the drive by pulling on the plastic tab connected to it.
Once the drive is free from the case, you'll need to lift off the plastic adapter that attaches it to the computer's SATA cable.
Four posts (two on the left side of the drive and two on the right) help support the drive inside the case. You'll need to remove them from this drive so you can use them in the new drive you're adding. Use the Torx screwdriver for loosening these.
Run through the steps again in reverse, adding the four side posts to the new drive, replacing the SATA connector, putting the drive into place, securing it by screwing in the bracket, and then replacing the cover and the 10 screws that hold it into place.
Software and wrapping up
After tightening the final screws and snapping in the battery, it's time to fire up the machine. You'll want to plug in the system for this part. When you boot up your Mac, you should get the characteristic "bong" sound and off-white screen, with a question mark in a folder. That's fine: It just doesn't recognize your blank drive. Turn the machine off and boot with your OS X disc (or "recovery disc") in the optical drive. This will automatically start up the OS X installer.
You should see something like this...
Simply running through the OS X Installer probably won't be enough: Your Mac won't find a disk to install to. You need to click the Utilities menu in the upper left, and run Disk Utility. Select your new hard disk and choose "Erase." This will reformat your disc in the Mac Extended Format (HFS+) format. It's a little confusing that they don't call this "Format," but there you have it. Just step through the OS X Installer and you're all done.
We're not going to run through the software side of this as there are many good guides out there. Additionally, there are multiple versions of OS X that you would be installing on the laptop, so you're better off search for the correct one.
And that's it! At this point (or at least in a few minutes) your updated MacBook Pro should be up and running with you're data back on it and a larger/faster/working storage device inside. This isn't a cure-all -- the effect will be limited depending on the age of your laptop and the version of OS X you are running. If you are working with a new MPB, say a Mid-2012 model, then moving to an SSD could make for a system that feels practically new.
With reporting by Joel Santo Domingo
