It is but a short journey from my home in battered Barry to “Dinky Pooh,” but the two are really worlds apart. Dinas Powys, or Dinky Pooh as it is affectionately known to many in these parts, is posh. Barry, on the other hand, isn’t.
Tucked away behind the Star Inn, in the heart of the old village, The Huntsman restaurant is exactly the sort of place you might expect to find in such a place. It’s discreet, elegant and quiet. Established in 1993 and run by Hilary and Peter Rice, one has the impression that it is a place for discerning diners who would prefer to keep it their own little secret.
Arriving at Dinas Powys train station from Barry, we took the short walk to the restaurant.
The menu, which changes fairly regularly, is not extensive, which in my view is always a good sign. Having a short selection of starters and main courses means the chef, who in this case is Hilary Rice, can concentrate on making each one perfect.
We started by sharing some beautifully presented pan-fried scallops on a bed of salad with crispy bacon and lemon vinaigrette. The scallops were plump and succulent. The crispy bacon bits in the salad really set them off and added to the taste of the entire dish.
For my main meal I chose pork tenderloin, pan-fried with red pepper, leeks, brandy and double cream. Again it was well presented and piping hot. For my taste, there was not quite enough salt or spice in the dish, although it still tasted good.
My wife chose the salmon and monkfish bake in a cream sauce with breadcrumbs. It was an interesting combination of fish with a delicate flavour.
The meals came with side dishes of roast potatoes, garlic and cream potatoes and a choice of fresh vegetable and crispy salad.
The roast potatoes were a bit of a disappointment, lacking the crispness and taste I had expected. But this was more than made up for by the garlic and cream potatoes which were absolutely delicious. The vegetables were cooked to perfection and the salad was indeed crispy.
Mention must be made of the house red wine. We chose a Malbec from Argentina which was full-bodied, smooth, delicious and reasonably priced. It was the prefect complement to the food.
We finished by sharing a homemade bread and butter pudding which was substantial without being overpowering. It was an old fashioned comforting end to the meal.
Heading for the train back to battered Barry we agreed that The Huntsman is a credit to Dinky Pooh.
The Huntsman Restaurant, Rear of the Star Inn, Station Road, Dinas Powys CF64 4DE. Tel: 029 2051 4900
The bill
Scallops £6.95
Pork £15.95
Salmon/monkfish £14.95
One bread and butter pudding £5.25
One lager £1.60
Bottle of house red wine £13.95
Total: £58.65
On the menu
Starters
Homemade soup £4.75
Hot smoked salmon with creme fraiche and dill dip £5.25
Garlic mushroom with bacon, brandy and double cream £6.75
Main course
Baked salmon with hollandaise sauce £14.95
8oz Welsh fillet steak with various sauces £19.95
Chicken breast escalopes pan-fried with tarragon, brandy and double cream £14.95
Roast breast of duck with Cumberland sauce £16.95
Dessert
Choice of puddings £5.25
Cheese board £6.50
Coffee and selection of teas £1.95
