Where can i find the axis and allies cd-rom patch v1.33? (thats free)

Axis and Allies Classic, 2nd Edition
“Not-so-Obvious” Rules List:

“Stack” restriction – Players are restricted in the number of “stacks” they can create by the number of pieces that came in the original game. “Chipping” remains unrestricted. (Page 7, middle column)

Column Rolling – In ALL combats, dice are rolled by individual column from lowest to highest. Casualties are applied BEFORE rolling the next column’s attack. (Page 18)

During the COMBAT MOVEMENT PHASE, aircraft flying over a territory containing an enemy AA gun are fired upon as they fly over, even if they don’t end movement in that territory. (Page 13, right column)

*Newly purchased naval units are not allowed to be placed in sea zones containing enemy naval units. (Page 21, middle column)

If their original carrier was sunk, defending fighters may ONLY land on an island/island group or carrier in the same sea zone. Failure to do so results in elimination. (Page 15, left column)

Armor MAY “blitz” through a territory containing an AA gun or Industrial Complex. (Rules Clarification, last page, middle column)
a. AA guns still shoot at aircraft flying over their territory even after having been “blitzed” in this fashon. (Page 5, left column “combat is considered simultaneous”)

The Suez Canal can only be utilized if both Anglo-Egypt Sudan and Syria/Iraq are controlled by your side at the BEGINNING of your turn. (axisandallies.org, “the intent was always for the Suez to mimic the Panama Canal rules” -krieghund)

*optional rule on page 31 removes this restriction

LOL What an Idiot…

Good work showing him up Yavid.

Shotest games I have played, are G1’s where the player quits after attrocious dice.

@Dylan:

@221B:

Its certainly one way to try to slow Japan down.  The extra territories for you (and less for Japan) does a couple things, 1) it reduces Japans IPCs and increases yours which is a swing of a few infantry and 2) it forces Japan to take more territories before it can threaten Moscow. Its a gamble if this is a better way to play than simply stacking Russian infantry in Yakut, then backing up to Novo but I think the allies are better off attacking than defending.

What also sometimes happens is 1) Russia takes Manchuria, 2) UK takes Kwang via the transport from india.  Then on US1, the US takes FIC if possible after J1.  This results in Japan having nothing on the mainland after R1.  To counter this in a bid game (though I’m not really an expert on playing with bids), it is typical to add an inf or two to manchuria so that the odds of Russia taking this is slim.

So I’m too stupid.

What?!

I don’t think you are stupid.

Download the patch here, this version already contains the directx fix.

http://home.centurytel.net/khb/aa/

The Japan isn’t the main problem. With a decent size Navy (2 hit BB’s hopefully) after Pearl Habor and maybe a buildup of some supporting ships (a few subs or destroyers), the Japanese can hold WUSA at bay even without blockading. However, it’s the German I’m more worried about only having subs and maybe a carrier to contend with).

Pulling out of Eastern Europe is a deathtrap! But seriously, you’re screwed if you did and screwed if you don’t since you’re know forced to defend two separate territories along with the unbearable 3 IPC loss. But anyways, Western Europe is probably the most feasible and the most advantageous of all the territories to take with USA and UK. But if you can position your transports correctly, you can strikes all German territories at once depending what is the most heavily under-defended.

Ah, forgot the “additionally” clause. Overall, this seems pretty sound. When I play Russia, usually I focus too much on Germany and sometimes forget how quickly the Japanese can creep up in my back door. On average, I may shift 2 inf now to Nov, and I’m sure another 4 would help me out without jeopardizing my Eastern Europe Operations. However, what I like about Russia is accessibility. Even if I forget to place 4 inf. in Russia early on, I can do so later due to fact that Nov is only one space away, making supply lines a minimal concern.

The board game is clearly the best for fun and general entertainment. Of course, you have to have ready made people :smile: to play with.

The CD is a great option if you don’t have a play group, or if you wish to expand your horizons. It is also the best way to learn quickly, as you can play in real time against many different people…and you can always get a game, regardless of time zone etc. Simply login to the zone.com, make your way to the A&A section and enter the W@W room. You can get a game there pretty much anytime…day or night.

I agree with those who say that the CD AI is crap…it is. Totally useless IMO. But, you never need to play it…as a human is always available.

Regarding bugs…there are some. Many people don’t realize that patch 1.3.3 fixes most of them. The rest of the bugs have fairly easy and common workarounds. There is no impediment whatsoever to playing the game over the internet against a live opponent and for the most part it is very smooth and very similar in look and feel to the boardgame.

Regarding clubs…there are many, for both the CD version and also Play By Email (PBEM). For CD check out spring1942.org or Balance-of-Power.net For PBEM check out AAMC.net All of these orgs are free to join.

Regarding club play…you will find it is a very dynamic community. Many friendships are formed on-line. Real time on-line chat on the zone.com provides a forum for chatting about anything, or just hanging out. I wouldn’t suggest these are a substitute for in-person friends, but you can derive a lot from these communities, and they go far beyond nameless and faceless game playing. Face to face tournies are also often organized locally, regionally through these clubs. As well, they are another great way to meet people in your city who enjoy the game.

If you cannot find the CD, simply visit the sites of Spring or BOP and request help. Chances are someone will point you in the right direction or even ‘burn’ you a copy of the CD. It has also been found at times through sharing engines like Gnotella etc where you can down load the entire disk…provided you have high speed access.

SUD